We spent three perfect days in the Highlands of Scotland this summer, and its capital, Inverness made the perfect home base. Though much of our visit to the area was spent day tripping, we really enjoyed the time we did spend in town.
The path along the River Ness, aptly named, the Ness Walk was really lovely and lucky for us the sun made an appearance during our visit.
The many footbridges provided not only a convenient way to cross the river, but lovely views as well.
Although it’s not open to the public, Inverness Castle, makes a very pretty picture perched on the hill above town.
During our river walk we discovered the Waterfront restaurant where we enjoyed one of the best meals of our entire trip. Not only was my salmon excellent, but on this rare occasion everyone enjoyed their OWN meal!
Hitting the two week mark of our six week adventure it was time for a laundry stop! The New City Laundromat, turned out to be just right for our needs! Disaster was narrowly averted when I left an entire load of my clothing in the washer, which then got mixed up in another family’s laundry… thankfully I figured it out and recovered everything. Whew!
Our accommodations at The Kingsmills Hotel, about 5 minutes from downtown Inverness, were very comfortable. The rooms were spacious and all of the bathroom amenities were very nice. This was the one place on our trip with a pool and the boys and I enjoyed it very much! The water was warm, there were pool toys available for the boys and over all it was a really lovely time. A very family friendly place with excellent service, I would absolutely stay here again.
A short trip to Scotland three years ago left me wanting to see more, so I was pretty excited about getting back for another visit. Glasgow, the first of three stops in this amazing country, did not disappoint! Two days just wasn’t enough in this walk friendly city brimming with architecture, art, music, and shopping! Lesson learned… However, two-ish days were all we had, so we wasted no time making the most of them!
Our first afternoon, spent wandering aimlessly in the main part of town, gave us a sense of what to expect… We really enjoyed the architecture and window-shopping on Buchanan Street.
Glasgow School of Art
Tim was really exited to visit the  Glasgow School of Art, which was founded in 1845 and is internationally recognized as one of Europe’s leading visual art schools. A fan of architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh he was most interested in seeing the school’s famous Mackintosh Building. However, a fire, set accidentally, during the 2015 end of term exhibition caused extensive damage and the building is currently closed for renovations.
The school does offer various walking tours and our guide, a current student, did a great job! We not only learned about the history of the school, the Mackintosh Building, and other Mackintosh works around town, but we viewed a collection of Mackintosh furniture as well. The Mackintosh building may be closed, but we did get an opportunity to visit the new Steven Holl building where we were able to view current student exhibitions of both fashion and jewelry.
Of course we had to visit the gift shop, which was filled with many lovely items all created by past and current students of the school. Elliot really enjoyed the children’s activities provided by the museum.
Afternoon Tea
Having learned about Glasgow’s tea rooms during our tour of the Glasgow School of Art we decided to visit the Willow Tea Room located on Sachiehall Street. We enjoyed our traditional afternoon tea, cocoa, and for Simon, haggis surrounded by early 20th century decor.
George Square
Once our bellies were full with tea and cakes we wandered toward George Square, named after King George III, it is home to an impressive amount of statues as well as the city council’s headquarters. This is a lovely spot to stop and rest, or feed the many birds.
Glasgow’s Mural Trail!
A happy accident, we discovered Glasgow’s Mural trail on the way to our next destination! The trail, a series of paintings in just about every style imaginable, was created to reduce the negative impact of an economic downturn and to help bring new life and visitors to the city center. You’ll find these amazing works of art on the side and front of buildings both occupied and vacant. These are just a few of the many amazing pieces of street art on display! If you’re interested in the Mural Trail there is a handy map available and if you’re not up for walking bicycle rentals are always a fun option!
The Necropolis
Hoping to capture a few great photos of Glasgow, we visited the Necropolis, a Victorian era cemetery located on a hill just east of the Glasgow Cathedral. Not only did we enjoy sweeping views of the city, but the Cathedral as well. We were fascinated by all the monuments, memorials and graves.
These are just a few of the 3100 monuments in the Necropolis, but there are as many as 50,000 individuals buried there!
Glasgow Cathedral
View from the Necropolis
We spent so much time wandering in the Necropolis the Cathedral closed before we could get in, but I really wanted to see it, so we decided on a morning visit on our way out of town. I’m so glad we made time! The details in the stonework and stained glass windows are stunning and if you have time I highly recommend it. Built in the 1200s it is the only medieval cathedral in Scotland to have survived the Protestant Reformation virtually unscathed.
We’ve Only Just Scratched The Surface…
Beyond the above sights, we wandered in Merchant City, enjoyed a number of memorable meals and even found time for a bit of relaxation in our hotel bar. I know that we barely scratched the surface of this lovely city and I hope to find my way back someday…
Blythswood Square Hotel
Our hotel, the Blythswood Square, was just a short walk from Buchanan Street and the Glasgow School of Art. The building had at one time been an automobile club, so was decorated with many car inspired accents. The perfect place for my automobile loving husband! The common areas were lovely and the service friendly. The rooms though not spacious were very comfortable.
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Take me with you!
Would you like directions to all these fabulous places? Why not take me with you! you can download this and other fun hilarystyle articles using the GPSmyCity app!
Our recent visit to Northern Ireland was by far the best day of our 12 day tour of the Emerald Isle, if not our entire summer abroad! It’s a funny thing too, considering “we” almost skipped this part of the trip, because while Northern Ireland was at the top of my list it wasn’t even on Tim’s.
However, My heart was set on seeing the many natural wonders located on Northern Ireland’s Antrim Coast! After all we would already be on the Island so It’s not like it was exactly out of our way.
So excited to be in Northern Ireland!
Before we get too much further in this post I should disclose that I am a huge Game of Thrones fan* and although that wasn’t the initial driving factor when deciding to visit Northern Ireland (Seriously, it wasn’t!) I will admit that seeing some of the show’s film locations did seem appealing. My wish list of sights was quite long and I wasn’t sure we would be able to see everything on our own in one day, so a guided tour seemed like our best option. After quite a bit of research and vetoing many tour companies** I chose Paddy Campbell’s Belfast Famous Black Cab Tours, and we couldn’t have been more pleased!
Our guide, Tom, met up with us at our hotel and after a brief discussion about the day’s itinerary we set off in Tom’s “black” taxicab. The tour covered everything from Belfast and it’s Troubles, to The Antrim Coast and was an all day affair. I wrote about Belfast in an earlier post: Northern Ireland! Belfast!  A bonus for me were the multiple Game of Thrones locations!
Many Photos Ahead…
Northern Ireland’s coastline is some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever had the good fortune to see! Each and every place we visited was a photographers dream come true, so even though it poured rain the entire day and the lighting definitely wasn’t on my side, I still managed to take MANY photos. I’ve done my best to narrow them down, but as you’ll see below I had a tough time with that… as I often do.
The Dark Hedges
Our first stop, The Dark Hedges, was also my favorite stop of the day! Planted in 1775 the 150 beech trees that make up the Dark Hedges were initially planted to help add interest to the approach of Gracehill House. Talk about a fancy driveway!
Not only is this natural wonder an incredibly beautiful and spooky spot, it’s also the film location for The King’s Road in Game of Thrones making it a very popular tourist destination. Even sharing the experience with all my fellow tourists couldn’t dull the moment. I couldn’t believe I was actually standing there.
Practical information: The Dark Hedges are one of the most photographed and visited attractions in Northern Ireland, but they are also alongside a road which is still very much in use. Buses, cars and pedestrians are everywhere, so caution is in order whether you’re walking or driving a vehicle. Some of the trees are as old as 350 years and hopefully with care and respect they’ll live a long time. I definitely hope to get back there someday…
Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge
It’s hard to put into words just how much I enjoyed our visit to this lovely spot, even in the pouring rain. Just a short walk from the car park to the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge you’ll be treated to amazing coastal views along the way and on a clear day views of Scotland!
The walk to the bridge
The water was so green!
If only it weren’t POURING rain
Crossing the bridge isn’t as scary as it might sound and the breathtaking views you’ll see from this unique vantage point (including down) will make it worth your while! If you do decide to give it a try you’ll be following in 400 years of footsteps before you.
Simon went first.
It’s my turn next!
Then Tim and Elliot… Watch your step Elliot!
Stunning views
Do look down
There were caverns down below
It’s hard to tell, but it was POURING rain!
When you’ve had your fill of beautiful views or you’re completely soaked, which ever one comes first, head back across the bridge and follow the trail back to your car. Make sure to look back over your shoulder for one last look.
Or two….
Practical Information: The walk to the bridge is fine for all ages, however keep in mind there are no protective fences on the island. You’ll want to keep a tight hold on any little ones you may be traveling with. The rope bridge isn’t very wide and it does move as you walk on it, so look where you’re going. Elliot’s first footstep was on the netting! Good thing Tim was holding his hand tight!
The walk isn’t strenuous
Waiting to cross
There are no fences on the island
Ballintoy Harbour
Our stop at Ballintoy Harbour, was a bonus for me, otherwise known as the Iron Islands, and according to our guide, the Red Woman’s Cave. Unfortunately the rain was coming down especially hard during this part of the day, so the boys stayed in the taxicab while I jumped out to snap a few photos.
The Giants Causeway
The one that started it all! As soon as I read about The Giant’s Causeway, I knew we’d be traveling to Northern Ireland! It’s no wonder this place is on just about everyone’s list of places to see on the Emerald Isle. It’s an amazing natural wonder! Or is it?
Declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986 The Giant’s Causeway was created when the giant Finn McCool was challenged to a fight by Benandonner a Scottish giant. Finn built the causeway so the two giants could meet in the middle for their fight, but Finn played a trick on Benandonner making him think Finn was much larger than he was, Benandonner fled back across the sea destroying the causeway as he went. Or so the story goes…
Another plausible theory is that the Causeway, a very large area of interlocking basalt columns, was created as a result of an ancient volcanic eruption. Whatever story you believe this is a place worth visiting!
Practical Information: Although there is a fee to enter the visitor center, you don’t have to pay to visit the Giant’s Causeway. Buses located just beyond the visitors center will take you up and down the hill for about 1£. Take care when walking on the columns as they can be extremely slippery.
The Visitor Center
The Wee Cottage
Toward the end of our day we realized we’d been so busy marveling at the scenery around us we’d never eaten lunch. Tom suggested the Wee Cottage an adorable little Family run restaurant. The setting, food and service were perfect (I recommend the bacon cabbage soup!), it was just what we’d been looking for. As usual the boys ordered cocoa with their meals. This heavenly concoction of chocolate, white chocolate, marshmallows and mint was one of the best we’ve ever had! An absolute 10! The fresh baked scones with loads of cream weren’t too shabby either!
Dunluce Castle
Our final stop of the day, Dunluce Castle, was conveniently located just steps from the Wee Cottage. Even with scaffolding covering a large portion of the castle you could see why this place has been the inspiration for multiple books, poems, record albums and movies! Amazingly It’s been around since 1500, but perched on the edge of a sheer cliff, it looks like it might slip into the sea at any moment…
Farewell Emerald Isle
After 12 incredible days my dream visit to Ireland and Northern Ireland was coming to a close. It was everything I’d imagined it to be and more!
Next stop: Glasgow, Scotland!
*Northern Ireland is one of the main filming locations for the HBO series Game of Thrones.
**We learned our lesson about joining large bus tours during our visit to The Ring of Kerry.
We’ve all heard of Titanic, the unsinkable ship that sadly sank on her maiden voyage. Her tragic story and the stories of her ill fated passengers have held our fascination for over 100 years, but did you know that Titanic was built in Belfast, home to the famous shipbuilders Harland and Wolff? Titanic Belfast, a museum dedicated to all things Titanic, is appropriately located in the very spot Titanic was built and launched. The moment I knew we would be in Belfast I knew this place would be on my list and we weren’t disappointed! If you find yourself in the vicinity or anywhere near it I highly recommend a stop!
The boys and I decided to walk to the museum from our hotel, which took about 30 minutes. Along the way we stopped to take photos by the river, saw a parade and walked by The Albert Memorial Clock.
Titanic Belfast is quite a large museum, so allow at least two hours for your visit, though we spent about four! If you’re traveling with younger children ask for the scavenger hunt when purchasing your entrance tickets. My little Elliot really enjoyed looking out for the clues and at the end he received a prize!
The museum exhibits are laid out along an easy to follow path which moves along from floor to floor. You’ll start by learning about Belfast’s linen and ship building industries and as you move forward you’ll learn about how the ship was built and launched, the loading of the passengers, the voyage itself and of course the sinking. There are also exhibits touching upon the aftermath, her discovery on the ocean floor and her history in film, books and television.
The many interactive exhibits, first hand accounts, and films are all really well done and kept us occupied for hours. The White Star Line dishes and other interesting artifacts on display throughout the museum really helped to bring the past to life. I took only a few photos during our visit and instead spent most of my time just enjoying the museum. We did see a wedding taking place which was fun. Interesting choice of venue!
Apparently you can get married at the museum!
Although it looked inviting the ground floor cafe wasn’t great, though the service was friendly enough. Of course no visit to a museum would be complete without a visit to the gift shop where we bought some holiday ornaments and a magnet.
The Nomadic – The Last White Star Vessel
Along with our admission to the museum our tickets also granted us access to the SS Nomadic, the Titanic’s tender and the last White Star Line vessel in existence. The Nomadic has a long history of her own, but her initial purpose as a tender was to ferry Titanic’s passengers back and forth from port. The Nomadic’s interior was intentionally styled to match Titanic. This would give the passengers a taste of what was to come on the larger vessel and ensure a seamless experience. I particularly enjoyed getting a feel for what it must really have been like aboard Titanic!
We spent a good amount of time exploring the ship and the many interactive displays on board. The boys enjoyed walking around on deck and of course posed for my many photos!
SS Nomadic a mini Titanic
Game of Thrones Bonus!
A huge Game of Thrones fan I was excited to see that Titanic Studios, where some of GoT is filmed is located just behind the museum! Maybe next time I’ll work out how to get in there for a look around…
Accommodations & Such…
We stayed at The Ten Square hotel located in Donegal Square directly across the street from Belfast’s City Hall. The rooms, service and overall experience were great! We enjoyed the hotel breakfast each morning and the staff were incredibly friendly. I would definitely stay here again.
However, I will mention that although the shower and bathroom were lovely the shampoo and conditioner were all in one which isn’t a favorite of mine. The hairdryer was powerful, but the power button had to be held down continuously, which can become tiresome after a while. The only plug was in the main room, which is never a positive for me.
I have to mention that we loved our food at  Nu Dehli a fabulous Indian Restaurant walking distance from the Ten Square. The Chicken Korma was fantastic!
Belfast, a city long plagued by Troubles, might not be high on your list of travel destinations, but maybe it should be? Not because it’s particularly beautiful though it does have a lot to offer, but simply because you can, and that in itself is a big deal. Having chosen Belfast for it’s relatively close proximity to the Giant’s Causeway, a UNESCO World Heritage site, we had no idea just how much we would enjoy the visit.
In fact our visit to Belfast and the Antrim coast of Northern Ireland were probably the two most impactful days of our six-week journey through Ireland, the United Kingdom and Europe! This speaks volumes as our itinerary was filled with some of the world’s most famous and beautiful places, but travel isn’t just about tasting the food, enjoying the beauty and learning the history. It’s also about experiencing the culture through interactions with the people, seeing how they live their everyday lives and learning to be open to different points of view. Our visit to Northern Ireland was all of the above and more!
The Troubles?
To better understand Belfast it’s important to understand at least a little bit about The Troubles. Fueled by earlier events in history The Troubles took place in the mid to later part of the 20th century. Though there are many factors, one key issue was whether or not Northern Ireland, which had become separated from the Republic of Ireland, would continue to be a part of the United Kingdom, or would/should it once again become part of the Republic. I don’t mean to oversimplify, but in a nutshell, many Protestants consider themselves British and have no wish to leave the UK, while many Catholics consider themselves Irish and wish to once again become part of what is now the Republic of Ireland.
I’m no expert on what is a very complicated situation in Northern Ireland, and rather than spend a lot of time paraphrasing what I learned online and during our tour, what I really hope to share with you are our personal experiences in the city and with the people we met there.
On the Edge of Peace
As a child I remember hearing about the troubles in Northern Ireland and Belfast. The nightly news painting a picture of a city plagued by terrorism, unsafe and divided. This was a place I was sure I would never visit. It never even crossed my mind. Yet here we were! Just the very idea that things have progressed enough for our visit to safely take place was so meaningful! The people we met and spent time with were some of the kindest and most pleasant of our entire trip.
The Troubles officially ended in 1998, but during our visit it became immediately clear to us that the peace, which exists today, is a tenuous one at best. Belfast is still very much a city divided, and when I say divided I mean quite literally. Walls or “peace lines” as they are known, some as high as 25 feet, separate the Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods. A number of these walls were built AFTER the 1998 peace agreement.
Many of the peace walls have gates which are at times staffed by police. They are open for passage during the day, but are closed at nights and in some locations on the weekends as well.
So, Is It Safe?
While I am a big proponent of stepping off the beaten path I’ve also learned that at times hiring a guide is best and this is definitely the case in a city like Belfast. After doing a bit of research I discovered the very highly rated Paddy Campbell’s Belfast Famous Black Cab Tours! I just can’t say enough about them! From the first email communication to the drop off at our hotel at the end of the day and every moment in between it was a perfect experience! No wonder they’re number one on Trip Advisor!
Our guide, Tom, picked us up at our hotel promptly at 9am. We piled in his “black” taxicab and set off for a full day* tour! He came prepared with snacks (chocolates and crisps) and bottled water for the four of us!
Tom, born and raised in Belfast, was a wealth of information. He drove us through the city explaining the history of Belfast, the Troubles, and the peace walls. We drove through both catholic and protestant neighborhoods easily identified by the different flags flying high outside their homes. Catholics, fly Irish flags, while the Protestants fly British flags…We got out at the wall and signed our names and wrote messages of peace.
Tom did a great job explaining The Troubles. He encouraged us to ask questions and explained everything in a friendly, fair and impartial manner. Â He waited until after the tour was over to tell us the more personal details about himself so as not to create a bias.
One can only imagine what it must have been like growing up in the midst of so much turmoil, no matter what side you stood for, especially because to us the city still seems fraught with so much tension. As tourists we never felt endangered exactly, it’s just that our feelings about Belfast changed dramatically after the tour.
It’s hard not to form opinions when you see homes with cages covering them for protection from the debris thrown over the top of the walls. Political murals depicting loss of life or celebrating each side’s “heroes” are prominently displayed on the side of apartments and many other buildings throughout Belfast. In fact there are over 2800 of these murals and multiple bonfires as large as city blocks are erected all over the city every July 12th and burned within spitting distance of residential homes. There are numerous parades through the streets, which demonstrate the clear division between the two sides. These things are all happening TODAY! Now!
Hearing about the Troubles from a first hand account really drove home how little we knew about the situation. Everything we knew came from American news sources and hearing the story from a different point of view really drove home the idea that no matter how open minded we believe ourselves to be, we rarely get the entire story making it difficult to have a truly informed opinion.
Troubled, fascinating, and surprising, this is Belfast.
Of course there is so much more to Belfast than it’s Troubles. Though the city seemed to have an industrial feel about it, there were many architecturally beautiful buildings, the people were some of the friendliest we encountered and we enjoyed a number of good restaurants during our stay. Belfast was a pleasant surprise and it’s troubled and fascinating history had an unexpected and profound effect on all of us.
*For the purpose of this post I am focusing only on the city portion of our tour, but stay tuned for a future post about our visit to the incredible Antrim Coast!
When I think of travel many things come to mind, adventures, seeing new sights, trying new foods, and dedicated family time. I love all of those things so much, however there are a few things about travel that I don’t love… Though worth bitching about mentioning, there is nothing that would stop me from embarking on my next journey, let’s not carried away!
Arriving in Dublin!
Having recently had the opportunity to stay in 12 different hotels over the course of 6 weeks I had a lot of time to think about the things I love and don’t love in hotel rooms. Before I tell you specifics I’ll admit upfront that I’m a bit of a hotel snob. However, I do try to be objective. Really!
A few of my not so favorite things:
Why are there never enough towels!? Enough said…
Data – in this age of instant satisfaction spotty data just won’t cut it, especially at the rates they’re charging for it?! This is especially irritating when one is attempting to watch the season finale of Game of Thrones from a hotel room and there is little or no wifi service!
Laundry services – Is it just me or do all hotel laundry services use the same very bad strong smelling detergent? And too much of it at that! Since Elliot insists on throwing up in just about every country we’ve ever visited and Simon fills in the blanks we’ve had plenty of occasions to notice.
Crappy shampoo – In an effort to travel light and pack everything in a carry on suitcase packing shampoo isn’t always an option, so more often than not travel equals bad hair that never quite feels clean. High on my dislike list are the two in one shampoo options!
Weak Hairdryers – and don’t even get me started on where to find the hairdryer! I like to think of it as a game: Find The Hairdryer. I get to play it at each new location! Yay me.
Plug placement – Why oh why can’t their be a hairdryer plug in the bathroom?! I’m traveling with a man who doesn’t shave on vacation (yes, even when traveling for six straight weeks), yet there’s always a shaver plug available!
Between bad water pressure, hard water, soft water, weak hair dryers, scalding hairdryers, cheap shampoo, rain, and humidity it’s almost impossible to have a good hair day while traveling, but throw in the fact that the hairdryer isn’t located in the bathroom and I’m absolutely sunk!
I’m sharing a room with three other people, none of whom wake up as early as I do, so while I can take care of everything else quietly in the bathroom, drying my hair isn’t an option unless I want three extremely grumpy traveling companions!
All of this has prompted me to come up with a personal rating system for places I stay and blog about!
I’ve decided this hairdryer icon  will work perfectly. Moving forward I’ll use a scale of 1 to 5 with 5 being the best! I’ve just finished a series of blog posts about our recent travels through Ireland, so I’ll start with those properties first! While cleanliness, comfort, and service are paramount. My ratings will also include the following criteria:
Water pressure
Shampoo quality
Placement of the hairdryer plug
Reviews:
The Westbury Hotel – Dublin
The Westbury Hotel had lovely bathrooms, with really good water and pressure! The shampoo and conditioner smelled and worked great! The hairdryer plug wasn’t in the bathroom but instead located at the mini bar/coffee station right next to the bed. The hairdryer was so hot I had to use the medium setting or risk burning my hair – that’s a first! If only the hairdryer plug had been located in the bathroom.
Overall this hotel was a lovely property located in a great part of town and I would absolutely stay here again. If you’re interested in a visit to Dublin, you might like to read Three Days in Dublin and if you’re a beer drinker or even if you’re not check out my post about The Guinness Storehouse!
The Ross Hotel – Killarney
The lobby and main areas in The Ross Hotel were fun and very trendy, but this didn’t carry over to the rooms which weren’t nearly as cheerful as the rest of the property. The bathrooms were pretty utilitarian with dark shower stalls and although the water pressure was decent, the shampoo and conditioner were awful. I never really felt like my hair was clean during our stay. The hairdryer was in the bathroom, but it was so weak it was hardly worth it.
Considering Killarney isn’t a big town and the staff, service and location were great I would consider staying again, but I would bring my own supplies. Killarney is well worth a visit as is The Ring of Kerry and if Castles and Cliffs are on your list than you are in the right part of the world for those as well!
The Twelve
The Twelve located just a few minutes down the road from Galway had a lovely and helpful staff and the rooms were very spacious for a family of four. Little touches of whimsy were placed here and there, so I really wanted to give them a better review… However, even great water pressure won’t help if the shampoo is terrible and it not only smelled bad, but it didn’t do anything. Unfortunately, the only plug located near the mirror was on the floor, so I had to dry my hair while kneeling on the floor. The hair dyer was decent though… In hindsight, I might like to stay just a little closer to Galway, so probably won’t choose to stay at The Twelve again. Galway was a lovely little town and if you fancy a chilly dip in the bay you’ll be in the right place!
Crystal blue waters and sandy beaches weren’t exactly what I was expecting during our recent travels to the Emerald Isle, but it’s exactly what we found! In fact Ireland has many beautiful beaches although the water is bit on the chilly side. Salthill Promenade overlooking Galway Bay came highly recommended, so after dropping off 8 days worth of laundry at a nearby laundromat we set off for the beach!
The Promenade also known as the Prom is 2 km long and lined with bars, restaurants and hotels. During the summer months their is an amusement park. It’s a popular destination with both locals and tourists alike.
We wandered up and down the Prom and really enjoyed the walk. About midway we came upon a giant high dive where we stopped to watch some kids jumping into the 59 degree water! Brrr! Those were some brave kids!
The water at Salthill was every beautiful shade of sparkling blue you can imagine changing from dark to light as wind blew the clouds back and forth across the sun. The lighting was spectacular! Note to self, don’t wear lip gloss and then walk along a windy beach and try to take photos. I did get a few good ones and as usual I’m probably sharing too many.
We only had one day in Galway and spent most of it at Salthill, but we did find time to explore the main part of town. Parking our rental car was no trouble at all and we wandered up and down the pedestrian only Quay Street poking in and out of the various shops. Our lunch at Martine’s of Quay Street was worth mentioning. Elliot had duck and Tim loved his fish soup, but Simon’s attempt at trying something new, bacon quiche, resulted in him eating my fish and chips and I had… bacon quiche…
Our hotel, The Twelve, was located a few miles outside Galway in Barna village. The service was excellent and the hotel rooms were whimsical and fun. The layout of two rooms with a shared bathroom worked perfectly for our family of four giving us all the privacy and space we needed.
Next up:
Stops in the Midlands, Newgrange and then on to Northern Ireland!
Filled with history, beauty and warm friendly people, what Ireland lacks in size it more than makes up for in heart! Easily traversed in one day, the Republic of Ireland isn’t a big country, but there is no shortage of worthwhile things to see and do which makes deciding where to stop along the way no easy task. The fact that it was our last day in this amazing place didn’t help matters.
While our ultimate destination that final day was Belfast, Northern Ireland, my list of sights in the Republic of Ireland was only partially checked off and with only hours left difficult choices had to be made. One such place was Newgrange, a 5000 year old monolithic passage tomb, which conveniently happened to be on our way to Belfast, this meant the castles in Athlone and Trim got only passing glances during true pitstops. Normally I would never pass up a chance to visit a castle let alone two, but the idea of seeing and stepping inside a place older than the pyramids was just too tempting to pass up!
Along the way from Galway to Belfast, Northern Ireland, UK
Athlone Castle –Â Athlone, Ireland
86 km from Galway
Athlone’s moto is “At the heart of it!” a fitting moto since it’s right in the middle of the country! Both Athlone and Trim looked were lovely places and we would have liked to spend more time in each, however neither time nor weather were on our side, so after a quick walk to stretch our legs we grabbed snacks and off we went…
Trim Castle – Trim, Ireland
92 km from Athlone
Newgrange Visitor Center – County Meath, Ireland
126 km from Trim
Newgrange is a prehistoric monument which is located in the Boyne River Valley about an hour or so outside of Dublin. I won’t go into too much history as I think the official website will do a much better and more thorough job, but I will say that built in the Neolithic period around 3200 BC Newgrange is older than both Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids. The exact origin and reason the passage tomb was built is unknown, but it’s believed to have religious significance. There are other passage tombs in the river valley as well, Newgrange is the most famous.
If you plan to visit Newgrange here are few things to keep in mind:
This is a very popular tourist destination especially during the winter solstice as this is the only time that light fills the tomb.
You can’t get to the tomb without joining a tour
The tours are only offered through the official visitor center
Reservations cannot be made in advance and the tours do fill up
All that aside, Newgrange was fantastic! The visitor center had a really nice exhibition as well as a movie, a cafe and a very decent gift shop. That was a good thing too because the first available tour was at 4:45 pm and we arrived at 2:30 pm. Access to the monument is via a bus which leaves directly from the visitor center.
walkway to the visitor center
Exhibition space
Exhibition space
replica of the passage tomb
Bridge to the bus
view from the bridge
on the bus!
on the bus
Upon arriving at the monument the guide will briefly explain the history and then split the group into two. While one group goes inside the passage tomb, the other explores the outside and then about 15 minutes later you switch. It’s tight inside, so you’ll be glad they split the group up!
While inside you’ll see a demonstration of what it would be like on the winter solstice when the sun shines into the tomb! No photography is allowed inside the passage tomb. I was amazed at how moved I was by the experience. The idea of standing in a place that had been in existence for thousands and thousands of years was very powerful. Afterwards while it was our turn to explore the outside I spent my time taking photos! The entire experience is about an hour long.
It was a long but incredibly fascinating day and a lovely way to end our visit to the Republic of Ireland!
Next stop:
Belfast, Northern Ireland
124 km from the Newgrange Visitor Center
Photo Gallery
Amazing craftsmanship!
5000 year old carvings!No wonder this place was hidden for multiple millennia.The countryside was beautiful.
Where is: halfway between point A and point B and boasts a large medieval castle with beautiful views? If you guessed our next “along the way stop” on our journey around Ireland, then you guessed right! Of course it wouldn’t be right if we didn’t get a late  start and losing the car keys didn’t help, but once we got all that sorted*, we were off! As expected the drive was beautiful and we saw many tower house ruins along with the ever present cows and sheep!
King John’s Castle
Along the way from Killarney to Galway… Limerick, Ireland
111 km from Killarney
We weren’t sure what to expect at King Johns’ Castle, but I do love a good castle and we had to stop for lunch anyway so why not just eat lunch at the castle? Although we had limited time in Limerick and I can’t speak to the city itself, I highly recommend King John’s Castle, especially if you’re traveling with kids!
I loved that it had the traditional castle look compete with ramparts and crenelations and the kids really enjoyed exploring the castle and its many interactive displays and activities. They both participated in a scavenger hunt which became a friendly competition between them! I will mention that the castle cafe turned out to be pretty terrible as they ran out of food and the line was painfully slow, notice I didn’t say long. So you don’t go there for the food…
However, the views from the castle ramparts were beautiful and I lucked out and saw them just before the torrential rains caught us! Getting to the carpark was an adventure in itself! Just as we left the castle the sky opened up and literally drenched us! It didn’t help that Tim and I each ran to the wrong (right?) sides of the car and then had to switch sides. Even with the heat blasting it was two hours before we dried off!
“Don’t look so happy…”
“how’s this?”
Always one to go along with my photo antics, Simon was kind enough to pose humor me and we I had some fun with the castle’s many props!
The Cliffs of Moher
Leaving Limerick with plenty of daylight to spare we set off for the Cliffs of Moher and crossed our fingers in the hopes that the skies would be clear by the time we arrived. Believe it or not, these magnificent cliffs which rise vertically almost 700 feet straight out of the sea and stretch for 5 miles are not the tallest cliffs in Ireland, however, they are the most famous and a definite must see if you’re visiting the West Coast of the Emerald Isle.
The Cliffs of Moher
Along the way from Limerick to Galway… Just south of the Village of Doolin in County Clare, Ireland
78 km from Limerick
Lucky for us the skies were clear when we arrived although it was very windy! The weather is never boring in Ireland! The views from the cliff top walkways near the visitor center were breathtaking, but judging by the silly antics of the boys I could tell they were over it within just a few minutes. It had already been a long day and in hindsight visiting at the end of an already full day was probably not the best idea.
There is a walk along the cliff tops , but we were running out of daylight and weren’t really dressed for a hike, so we satisfied ourselves with a good long look over the edge and then spent time in the visitor center. The center is fairly new and very well done with interactive exhibits, a restaurant and a gift shop.
If you’re looking for a slightly different view point, you can walk up O’Brien’s Tower. We discovered these wedding rings on the tower bulletin board left there by a woman honoring her nana’s last wish… very sweet.
Next Stop: Galway!
*Seems like for us Killarney and transportation just didn’t mix!
Growing up in the Pacific Northwest, surrounded by lush green landscape all year long, I was skeptical about the idea that there could be anywhere more green, I mean just as green, sure, but MORE green, no way… Okay, I was wrong, Ireland has the PNW beat, because not only are there 50+ shades of the most intense green you’ve ever seen and then some, but there are castles too!  You’ve got to have castles!!
Driving from Cork to Killarney we experienced not only all those beautiful shades of green, but its possible to have weather from all four seasons within one day, if not the hour, which made our drive, not only stunningly beautiful, but eventful as well!  Rain, wind, sun, clouds you name it…
White caps on the lake!
Planning to explore nearby areas we spent three nights in Killarney, the gateway to the Ring of Kerry and the perfect little Irish town! Quaint, friendly and picturesque, it was exactly what I had pictured an Irish town to look like!
After some difficulty deciding which pub to eat at (there were so many to choose from) we ended up at Danny Mann’s Lounge for dinner and traditional Irish Music! Super Fun! Tim had the best meal, cottage pie, and afterwards we stopped at our new favorite Irish ice cream shop, Murphy’s!
S**TÂ Happens!
Only a few days into our Irish adventure we were still plagued by Jet lag and got a late start, what else is new? We had our “morning” coffee and pastries at this adorable and tasty little patisserie in town, before we hit the gas station to fill up for our drive to the Dingle Peninsula. By this time it was already 1:00 pm…
Then this happened:
We went to the nearest gas station and filled up… with gas… but we were renting a diesel!! Argh! Of course driving it wasn’t an option. Apparently this happens three or more times a week. Thankfully there was a service station right across the road… convenient, right?! The station attendant said he was busy but he could remove the gas later in the evening, or… we could just fill it the rest of the way and try to burn it off…I wan’t too keen on that!!! We weren’t taking that chance on narrow winding roads in unfamiliar territory and we can’t drive around this tiny town all day trying to burn off the fuel, we’ve just got to leave the car and find something else to do. After all mistakes do happen and it’s not our car!! We had to leave the car at the pump! The gas station attendant  was so kind and assured us, “Don’t worry about your car, this happens every week.”
Having never driven a diesel it was news to me that American diesel cars and pump nozzles have different shapes preventing such a mistake from happening, I’m betting it’s mostly Americans who are pumping the wrong fuel! I will report that we received excellent service from and were only set back about 80 Euro.
Life Gave Us Lemons, So We Made Lemonade!
Killarney National Park!
Not having a car meant no trip to the Dingle Peninsula, which although disappointing, turned out to be more than okay as we spent a lovely day wandering in the Killarney National Park. Located just across the road from downtown Killarney and about one block from our hotel it was just steps away. No car needed! As I mentioned the weather can be quite unpredictable and we experienced just about every kind of weather during our walk in the park. We were well prepared with rain gear and the boys loved walking into the wind and rain! The park path twisted and turned through forest and meadow and along the way we saw cows, deer and ducks, and at the end a castle!
Ross Castle
Ross Castle, a 15th century tower house, is open for tours. Keep in mind that Castle tours are limited to around 12 people and run about every 30 minutes. Consider getting your tickets upon arrival and then exploring the grounds while you wait for your tour to begin. Seriously, because the tours will fill up…  You can also visit the nearby Ross Island, however the winds were very strong on the day of our visit and the boats to the island weren’t running. We learned that there are as many as 3500 tower houses still standing across Ireland today. If you keep an eye out you can see them from the road!
Rain!WindSun (sort of…)
After our walk we decided to take a jaunting car back to town. In case like me, you have no idea what a jaunting car is: It’s basically a horse and cart! Our driver was a third generation jaunting car driver and much to Elliot’s delight he got to “drive” us back to town! We finished up our day with a lovely traditional dinner at Sceal Eile! I had the cottage pie!
Cottage Pie
Elliot had the muscles
Stay tuned for more of our amazing road trip through the Republic of Ireland… Next stop: The Ring of Kerry!
Just A Few (50) of the Many Shades of Green we saw along the way…