Category: Europe

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Spain: Toledo A City Of Three Cultures!

#sunsettoledospain

#toledospainOnce upon a time there was a place where Christians, Jews and Muslims all lived together in relative harmony… Known as the “City of Three Cultures” Toledo, a walled city located in central Spain, was once such a place. It was largely for this reason that it was declared a world heritage site in 1987. We spent three days exploring the narrow cobbled streets of this amazing medieval city and with over 2000 years of history there was no shortage of things to see.

Cathedral of Toledo

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Having learned my lesson about unpredictable visiting hours in other Spanish cities, I decided our first order of business would be to see the Cathedral. It’s a good thing we did, because after 6 pm on our first day the Cathedral was closed to tourists, the entirety of our visit, in observance of The Ascension of Mary.

Located in Ayuntamiento Plaza, according to our guide, The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo is the second largest cathedral in Spain and the most important. The tower of the Cathedral is 301 feet tall and can be seen from almost anywhere in the city. The inside spaces are incredibly beautiful, and this is definitely not a case of “you’ve seen one you’ve seen them all.” Photos aren’t really allowed, but I did sneak a few, I  just couldn’t help it!

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The Jewish Quarter

#jewishquartertoledo

The Jewish Quarter in Toledo is a popular tourist destination. You can’t miss it because it is very clearly marked with signs and tiles inlaid into the walls and streets surrounding it. At night there are images in Spanish, English and Hebrew projected onto the streets letting you know you’ve arrived.

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Today, there are no operational synagogues within the walls of the old Medieval City. However there are two former synagogues and a mosque which are available to visit, all three of which are now designated as museums.

Synagogue of El Transito

El Transito a former synagogue dating back to the mid 14th century was built in the Mudejar style and is now the Museo Sefardi.

#synagoguetransito

Santa María la Blanca

Santa María la Blanca, also a museum and former synagogue, was built in 1180 some believe it to be the oldest synagogue building in Europe which is still standing. It is now owned and preserved by the Catholic Church.

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While in Toledo we stayed in the Jewish quarter at the Hotel Pintor El Greco. The hotel and  location were great, only steps from the El Greco Museum and within easy walking distance of both synagogues, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, one of El Greco’s most famous works and many other sights.

Other Major Sights

Mezquita Cristo de la Luz

#mosquetoledoBuilt in 999 on the site of a former church the Mosque of Cristo de la Luz is the only surviving Moorish mosque in the city of Toledo that remains virtually unchanged since its construction.

Puerto Del Sol

#puertodelsolOne of Toledo’s City gates the Puerto Del Sol is not far from Cristo de la Luz.

Monasterio de San Juan De Los Reyes

#sanjuandelosreyesThe Monasterio de San Juan De Los Reyes was founded by King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella I of Castile. Originally it was to be their final resting place, but they later changed their minds and chose to be buried in Granada instead.

Unfortunately we were unable to visit the inside due to a wedding taking place, but we were able to walk through the cloisters and other areas of the monastery. The exterior of the monastery, per the Queen’s order, is covered in manacles and shackles worn by christian prisoners from Granada who were released during the Reconquista.

Iglesia De Los Jesuitas

Cortes De Castilla-La Mancha

What Else is Toledo Famous For?

Toledo is not only known for its religious history, but also for its weapon and armor production, Damasquinado jewelry, marzipan and of course it’s amazing Spanish cuisine.

All of us were fascinated not only by the amazing craftsmanship and variety of different swords, weaponry, metalware and jewelry available, but also by the sheer number of stores selling it! They were everywhere and I personally spent a lot of time admiring the handmade jewelry and even picked up a few things. Of course I did!

Hiring A Guide

#toledospainWe were somewhat surprised to find that unlike other cities we’ve visited in Spain, there was almost no english translation available anywhere. We spent the first day wishing we knew more Spanish and soon realized we would need to join a tour or hire a guide. English tours didn’t seem to be available but after some persistence on our part we were able to find and hire a private guide. Yolanda, a native of Toledo, was a wealth of knowledge and we spent two very informative hours with her.

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Toledo Spain #familytravel #spainwithkids #toledospain

Take Me With You!

Would you like directions to all these fabulous places? Why not take me with you! you can download this and other fun hilarystyle articles using the GPSmyCity app!

#gpsmycityhilarystyle

 

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Spain! The Alhambra!

SAMSUNG CSCHistory, architecture, beautiful gardens and craftsmanship beyond compare, the Alhambra has it all! Its also an immense fortress made up of many buildings including palaces, which made it high on my list of must see places. Located in Granada, Andalusia the Alhambra is one of Spain’s most popular tourist destinations and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We spent the better part of a day and evening exploring and still we weren’t able to see everything.

Alhambra Edits-6073.jpgThough the original fortress was built in 889, it wasn’t until the mid-13th century that the current buildings and walls were renovated and built by moorish kings in the Mudéjar style. Although I did my best to try and capture it in pictures the intricacy and beauty of the carvings on the walls and ceilings inside the Nasrid Palaces must be seen to be believed.

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Planning Your Visit

SAMSUNG CSCDue to extreme popularity and its delicate nature the number of visitors to the Alhambra is very limited. In fact they only allow 6,600 visitors in timed increments per day, so purchase your tickets as soon as you know you’re going. I can’t stress this enough especially if your visit will take place during the summer months.

Our visit took place in late September and there was only one day and time on the reservation calendar with availability. Lucky for us it was the one day we would be in town!

*YOU WON’T BE ABLE TO PURCHASE TICKETS THE DAY OF YOUR VISIT*

Okay, now that we’ve established that you’ll be planning ahead…

Tickets are purchased through the Ticketmaster website. There are many options to choose from for both day and night. We choose Alhambra General which includes all the highlights as well as the gardens and Alhambra at Night. The ticket buying process could be a bit smoother, but trust me its worth the hassle. For additional information on the ticket buying process check out this great post by WanderTooth!

Photo Frenzy!

A magical place, famous the world over, it’s no surprise that the Alhambra has been featured in literature, music, astronomy, and even video games!  I definitely fell under its spell and hoping to capture some of what I was feeling I spent the day taking endless photos. I did my best to pick and choose but in the end it was tough to decide and I’ve probably included too many. I hope you enjoy them!

Now That’s What I Call A Picture Window

The Generalife Gardens

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Campers at the Alhambra Granada, Spain

The Nasrid Palaces – Day & Night

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Charles V Palace

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Granada

SAMSUNG CSCMost of our time in Granada was spent visiting the Alhambra, but the little we did see we liked very much! Our reservation wasn’t until 2 pm which gave us time to walk around town and have a leisurely lunch. We enjoyed our lunch so much we went back to the same restaurant for dinner!

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An Afternoon in Seville!

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Seville is the capital of Andalusia and one of Spain’s largest cities. Famous for tapas, bullfighting and Flamenco dancing it’s a place worth spending time in. Unfortunately we didn’t have much and we had to choose between Seville and Granada, and because it was new for all of us, Granada won. It doesn’t hurt that its home to a really big castle! Sorry, Seville.

The good news is that we were on a road trip and we made sure that Seville was on the way! Not a bad place for a pitstop!

First Things First! Lunch!

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If you’ve ever been then you know the food in Spain is something extra special! The moment we crossed the border from Portugal our mouths started watering in anticipation!

Lucky for us Tim had been to Seville before and he had the name of a favorite tapas place in his contact list! If you’ve been reading my blog you might remember that we often spend long periods of time wandering aimlessly while looking for a place to eat. This time we only had a few hours, so no time to waste!

Finding food the boys will enjoy can at times be a challenge, but thankfuly this isn’t the case in Spain! We ordered all of our favorites: Sangria, Jamón Iberico, chorizo, Manchego cheese, and calamari! It was a feast!

#jamoniberico

#lasteresasmenu

#jamoniberico

#cafebarlasteresas

#lunchinseville

#sevilletapas

A Bit Of This And That

After lunch we spent a little time wandering around the Santa Cruz neighborhood, once the Jewish quarter of the medieval city its now the main tourist area of Seville.

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#sevillejuderia

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Santa Cruz is also the location of the Cathedral of Seville, the Giralda Tower and the Real Alcázar.

The Cathedral Of Seville

I was disappointed to find that the Cathedral of Seville and Giralda Tower were closed during our visit, so we were unable to go inside. The Cathedral is so big it’s near impossible to get all of it in one photo. Just walking the perimeter was impressive, so I can only imagine how spectacular the inside must be.

#cathedralofseville

#catherdralofseville

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The Real Alcázar

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The  Real Alcázar of Seville  is a royal palace and it is still used by the royal family as their official Seville residence. It is open to visitors and if like me, you’re a Game of Thrones fan, you might be interested to know that the Real Alcázar is where they filmed the Water Garden scenes in season 5.

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I wish I could say we had time to see more, but sadly we did not. We walked around the Patio de Banderas which has a great view of the Giralda Tower, but the day was getting late and it was time to hit the road.

While we didn’t have the kind of time needed do a city like Seville justice, we got a feel for it and are definitely looking forward to a return trip.

#juderiaseville

#realalcazar

#streetsofseville

#seville

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Things to do in Seville Spain

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The Algarve Pinch Me, Is This real?

#walkofsevenhangingvalleys

#agarvebeachesBoasting some of Europe’s best beaches the Algarve Region of Portugal was on my list of must see places. After reading about the area’s amazing cave formations, crystal blue waters and year-round perfect weather this was the leg of our Portugal trip I was most excited for. The boys and I love to swim and Tim loves all things ocean, so a win for everyone.

Hitting It Out Of The park

#carvoeirothe Algar Seco rock formations were located just steps from the resort where we were staying. There is an elevated cliff walk and upon further exploration we discovered that there are also stairways and paths which have been carved directly into the rocks.

At first my internal mom voice was absolutely freaking out. Okay, who was I kidding, it wasn’t just internal, but I begrudgingly let Tim take Simon to check it out. Elliot and I waited close to the stairs and enjoyed the view. I must have told him to sit down about 1000 times!

After a while Tim came back and reported that it would be safe for Elliot and I to go a little further. By this time the incredible beauty of the place coupled with the knowledge that this was a once in a lifetime experience won out over my fears. It didn’t hurt that an older couple complete with poodle appeared in the doorway a moment later! If it was safe for them it was safe for us, right?

#exploring

We had arrived just before sunset and the timing couldn’t have been better! I wish I could describe to you the way it felt standing there on those rocks at the edge of the Atlantic as the sun was setting. Breathtaking,  amazing, and spectacular are just a few of the words which came to mind.

#sunsetontheatlantic

Feeling Out Of This World…

#labonecaThe Restaurante Boneca Bar, nestled right into the side of the Algar Seco rock formation, has an almost otherworldly feel. The area’s beautiful weather lends itself to this being an all outdoor restaurant with 5 star views. We liked it so much we went back for lunch the next day.

At the edge of the restaurant’s terrace there are steps which lead down to a small passageway. At the end there is a tiny cave with “windows” which look out onto the ocean and there are benches carved into the walls making this a lovely little spot to watch the sun go down or steal a moment.

#aboneca

The Algar Seco Parque Resort

#algarsecoThe Algarve is a very popular tourist destination and finding somewhere to stay off the beaten path was difficult. We found some of what we were looking for in Carvoeiro, a smaller town located between Lagos and Faro.

We choose the Algar Seco Parque resort, which was located just across the street from those spectacular cliffs I mentioned above and within walking distance to many beaches and restaurants. The accommodations were great, very affordable and we would definitely stay there again.

The Beaches

Praia da Marinha

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First on my list was a beach that the Michelin Guide listed as one of the ten most beautiful beaches in Europe and as one of the one hundred most beautiful beaches in the world. Not only that, it’s on just about every other beach list too.

It did not disappoint. The Praia da Marinha was stunning, and the entire time we were there I kept thinking how amazing it was and that this couldn’t be real. There were high winds and surf that day, so swimming wasn’t permitted, but we relaxed on the sand, dipped our toes in the surf and took many photos.

The tide was coming in, so after a light snack at the beach bar we went on a portion of The Seven Hanging Valleys Walk, a signposted trail high above the beaches. Again the views are so stunning it was a pinch me is this real moment.

PRAIA DOS PESCADORES

#sunsetinportugalLocated 30 minutes down the road in Albufeira we arrived at Praia Dos Pescadores just in time for another jaw dropping sunset. The town of Albufeira is extremely touristy and after a quick look around we decided to head back to Carvoeiro for dinner.

Albufeira
Praia dos Pescadores
Praia dos Pescadores
Albufeira
Super Moon Chasers

Benagil Sea Cave

Unfortunately the same high winds that prevented swimming also foiled my plans to see the famous Benagil Sea Cave. I won’t lie, I was pretty disappointed, but part of traveling is understanding that things might not always work out exactly as planned. At least that’s what I keep telling myself.

 The Super Moon Eclipse

Prior to the trip I purchased a long range lens and a tripod with the hopes of taking a few night photos. The Super Moon Eclipse was the perfect excuse! Although we had to set our alarm for a brutal 2:00 am, the clear star filled skies, remote location and the company of my son made for excellent viewing and a very worthwhile experience!

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Exploring the Algarve Portugal #portugal #thealgarve

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Portugal! DETOUR… To The End Of The World!

After an incredible few days in Lisbon we set out for the south of Portugal, our final destination was Carvoeiro, a small town in the Algarve. There are various routes to choose from, but given the chance Tim will always choose the road closest to the ocean. I’m the navigator which makes it my job to research what interesting sights there are along the way. Everyone’s happy!

Though not exactly on the way to our destination, (okay, not even close) I had read about Cape St. Vincent, the Southwest most point of the European continent, a place that was at one time considered to be the end of the world. This seemed like a place worth going out of the way for! We were not disappointed!

Along The Way

Our route took us through the Alentejo region a sparsely populated area that is known for its wine, cork and other agricultural crops. We passed through a number of small towns and were fascinated by the fact that many of the buildings, even the bus stops, were painted white with a blue border. We later learned that this is to ward off evil spirits.

Praia do Beliche

#praiadobelicheJust before arriving at the Cape we discovered Praia do Beliche, a remote and lovely little beach! The climb down is quite steep, but the perfect sand, fabulous views and tranquil setting make it worth the effort! Standing there looking out on the Atlantic I  felt just how far from home we really were.

There is a small bar/restaurant, but I’d suggest bringing your own snacks if you plan to stay awhile. I did notice a few nude sunbathers, but apparently the kids weren’t aware and its pretty much the norm there.

Cape St. Vincent

#theendoftheworldStanding atop the windswept cliffs of Cape St. Vincent It’s easy to understand how ancient people might have believed they’d come to the end of the world. I spent some time looking around and there is a small museum and a lighthouse, but beyond that there really isn’t anything else, adding to the feeling of what it must have been like to come upon this desolate place in another time. Now this area is a busy shipping lane and the lighthouse is one of the most powerful in Europe. It’s lighting can be seen as far as 60 kilometers away.

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These days everyone knows the world isn’t flat, that the sun isn’t boiling the sea each night when it sets and that we won’t fall off the edge if we sail too far, but there was still something so intriguing about road tripping to what was once considered to be The End Of The World!

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Sintra! Where We Accidentally Hired A Fabulous Guide!

Just an hour outside Lisbon lies Sintra, a quaint little town with everything going for it, beauty, history and palaces galore! No wonder it’s a UNESCO world heritage site! We spent one day here and easily could have spent many more…

#sintraportugal

Sintra is where the Portuguese royals and nobility spent their summers and because of this just about every structure is a castle, palace or grand home. If staying in one appeals to you, you’re in luck because many of them have been converted into luxurious hotels.

When We Accidentally Hired A Fabulous Guide

#sintraviewsAs per our usual style we decided to get to Sintra and tour around on our own. I had read up on it and I knew if we did it right we could manage to see at least three of the main sights in one day.

Getting there was no trouble. The Rossio Rail Station was within walking distance of our hotel and with trains leaving for Sintra every 20 minutes until 11 pm we were in no rush. A roundtrip ticket is €5 and you can purchase your fare from the kiosks just before you board the train. Upon arrival at the Sintra station we followed the signs towards town.

Like Lisbon, Sinatra’s terrain is very steep and many of the main points of interest are located at the top of the hills. While walking from sight to sight is an option, this is not only time consuming but Simon had recently broken his ankle and walking long distances wasn’t going to work for us. We had heard about a bus that does a loop between three of the main palaces, but that meant we were on someone else’s schedule and that didn’t seem like a fit for us.

There is a large tourist center in town and there we were again advised to take the bus up the hill, the stop was just right outside… We purchased tickets to both the Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle ruins and decided, sigh, to check out the bus.

That’s when we saw him! The friendly looking fellow in the miniature bright orange plastic car! Should we ask him for a ride? We wondered what he would charge. The boys had been asking for a ride in one of “those” tiny cars. Okay, we’ll tell him we just want a ride, no tour…

#carlosevora

We ended up having the best day and it was in large part to the driver of that charming little plastic car, Carlos Evora! He offered us the ride up the hill to Pena National Palace for €5 each, but “could he show us just one place on the way?” We quickly discovered that we had hit the tour guide jackpot! There was just something about him, not only did he take us to many lovely places we would have missed on our own, but he was incredibly friendly, kind to the children and a wealth of knowledge! He even surprised us midway through the day with tiny cakes from Queijadas da Sapa Cintra!

Tivoli Palácio de Seteais

#penapalaceviewWe started our “we aren’t on a tour” with a quick stop at Tivoli Palácio de Seteais at one time a palace it’s now a 5 star hotel with amazing views of Pena National Palace and the surrounding valleys.

The 9th Gate Movie House

#9thgatemovieWe’re big Johnny Depp fans in our house, so imagine our surprise and delight when we stopped for a look at one of the film locations from the 1999 Move The 9th Gate which I’m sure Tim has watched 50 times!

Pena National Palace

#penapalaceThe main reason for our visit to Sintra was Pena Palace. In fact the moment I saw photos of this Palace which looks like something out of a fairytale I decided we were going! The palace is visible from many places within the Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais and Carlos was kind enough to drive by many different view points so I could take photos! Once we arrived we spent about 90 minutes exploring.

The terrain is very steep
The views were spectacular
We walked along the walls of the Palace

Castelo dos Mouros

#castleofthemoorsCarlos advised us not to use our tickets to the Moorish Castle. He suggested that because we had already visited the ruins of the Castelo de St. Jorge in Lisbon it might be redundant and maybe a bit boring for the kids. However, we were able to capture some great photos of it from the Pena Palace and along the road.

Cork Trees

Cork products are everywhere in Portugal and with good reason!  Have you ever wondered where cork comes from? Did you know that close to 50% of the worlds cork comes from Portugal?! You’ll find everything from shoes to candy wrappers made from what is actually the bark of the Cork Oak Tree.

Quinta da Regaleira

If beautiful architecture, gardens, secret tunnels and hidden passageways appeal to you then don’t miss Quinta da Regaleira! All four of us really enjoyed our visit here! It was our last stop and we all wished we had discovered it earlier in the day. It was truly magical!

This looked like a tiny lookout…
It was hiding this hidden tunnel

We Ran Out of Time…

We didn’t have time to visit Monserrat or the National Palace of Sintra, but they’re both on my list for next time.

We had an amazing time with our new friend Carlos! Beyond what I mentioned above, we stopped at a number of other points of interest, saw eagles and parrots, and in general just throughly enjoyed driving up and down the hills of Sintra with such a lovely person who clearly loves what he does! Before we parted ways for the day he was kind enough to go over my itinerary for our final day in Lisbon and after such a successful day in Sintra we were only happy to take his advice!

 

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Scotland! Searching for Brigadoon… The Highlands!

I’ve always loved reading books and watching movies that are set in another time and place, I also love all things magical and fantasy related, so it’s no wonder that visiting a magical place like Scotland was high on my wish list!

#thehighlands

Speaking of watching movies, one of my all time favorite movies is the musical Brigadoon! It takes place in Scotland. Have you seen it? I won’t say too much incase you want to, but the gist is: two New Yorkers go on a hunting trip to the Highlands of Scotland and stumble upon a village that only comes to life for one day every one hundred years. There is a lot of singing and dancing, it is a musical after all, and of course there is the village girl. You can probably guess what happens next… it’s all very romantic. I also love a good romance! So now we’ve got everything covered: another time and place, magic and romance! Basically, perfection! While we didn’t find Brigadoon on this particular trip we visited many other magical and fascinating places that definitely left us wanting more. If you’re wondering about romance, well… we do bring the kids, so not this time. 😉

Road Trip

#roadtripMost of our Scotland trip was spent in the charming city of Edinburgh, but we did spend one day driving into the Highlands, and when they say Highlands, they really mean it! Driving along it seemed as though the hills suddenly rose up out of nowhere. It’s stunningly beautiful and the way the mist creeps and slides down over the hillsides makes everything seem very mysterious and magical.

Stirling Castle

#stirlingcastleOur first stop was Stirling Castle and while not exactly in the Highlands, it is on the way! Stirling Castle was the home of such notable figures in Scottish history as Marie de Guise, Mary Queen of Scots, her son James the VI, and many other important figures. The Castle was also the  location of major battles led by William Wallace against the English troops in the War of Independence .

Stirling has a number of wonderful exhibits including a special area just for younger children where they can dress up in period clothing and learn about castle life. Throughout the castle you’ll find people dressed in costume representing figures from the castle’s history. They’ll answer questions and tell you all about themselves. Elliot especially loved “meeting” Marie de Guise, the mother of Mary Queen of Scots, and learning about her magical unicorn horn. The gardens are extensive and if you take a walk along the castle walls you’ll find amazing views of the valley below. If you get hungry they have a number of food options and there is also a lovely gift shop.

The National Wallace Monument

#wallacemonumentAcross the Forth River from Stirling Castle is the National Wallace Monument, in fact you can see it from the walls of Stirling Castle. William Wallace is a national hero and the movie Braveheart is based on the part he played in Scotland’s War of Independence over 700 years ago. The monument itself is located at the top of a hill and there is a lovely wooded trail if you feel like a walk, or there is a bus that goes back and forth. The main attraction inside the Monument is Wallace’s sword which is 5 feet 4 inches tall! That’s taller than me!! There is access to the very top of the Monument and the views from up there are spectacular! We “met ” William Wallace during our visit and he was kind enough to tell us his story.

The sword is 5’4″ tall!
There are lovely views from the top of the Wallace Monument

Skyfall

#skyfallOur next stop was a beautiful forest in Glencoe, Ballachulish which also happens to be the location of 007s home, Skyfall. Their have been many notable movies filmed in this area including Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets. How cool!

Fort William

Just up the road is Fort William and although it was raining pretty hard, we walked around the town a little bit before we found ourselves some dinner. We had heard from friends in Edinburgh that langoustines are the thing to eat while visiting Scotland! We had limited time, but there are many things to see and do in and around Fort William. It’s considered the Outdoor Capital of the UK.

#scotishsunset

We drove a bit further and saw beautiful lochs and a fabulous sunset. Had we not been leaving for London the next day we would have loved to keep going and visit the famous Loch Ness, but it was just a bit too far for a one day excursion… Next time!

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Lisbon! Visiting the Oceanário de Lisboa

#oceanariodelisboaThe question I’m asked most frequently when people find out that we are planning our next adventure is, “Are you bringing the kids?” The answer is always YES!

The next questions usually revolve around whether or not the kids enjoy travel and what we do to keep them occupied. Not that they weren’t always “go along” guys, but it’s definitely getting easier as they get older and while they are interested in seeing what each new city has to offer, it helps to allow time for some of the more family friendly attractions.

Vasco the Explorer

Most recently after a long hot day exploring fabulous Lisbon we decided that asking the kids to step inside one more church or monument might not be fair, so we decided to surprise them with a trip to the Oceanario de Lisboa, or the Lisbon aquarium. For the most part the monuments in Belem were already closing or would be soon and there was still time to make the Oceanarium.

The aquarium is located in the Parque das Nacoes, a newer more modern part of the city which was built up for the 1998 World Expo. It’s one the largest aquariums in the world and the largest one in Europe. Along with the usual favorites, like sea otters, penguins, sharks, rays and seahorses they also have an Ocean Sunfish which we were pretty excited to see!

#oceansunfish

Having visited a number of aquariums I was really impressed with the ease in which we were able to go from exhibit to exhibit. Even with limited time we were able to see everything without feeling rushed.

In the end what started out as a break for the kids turned out to be a really lovely experience for all of us!

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Portugal! Lisbon’s Belem Neighborhood!

With only two full days to discover Lisbon we felt we barely scratched the surface and we definitely left the city wanting more. There are so many fabulous neighborhoods to explore, but we had to make choices and we chose Belem!

#takingabreak

Per our usual modus operandi we got up late and ended up grabbing a coffee and a pastry to go. Wanting to explore a bit more of the city we decided to walk part of the way to Belem along the river path. After a while the path seemed to end, so we cut up through the neighborhoods and discovered some fun design shops, a great food market and some pretty neat street art.

A perfect day for wandering along the Tagus River
Not sure if the fish were biting, but that’s a lot of poles to keep track of!

First on my list upon arriving was the Padrão dos Descobrimentos or the Monument of Discoveries. The monument stands as a testament to Portugal’s past and their part in world exploration on the seas. Perched on the edge of the Tagus River the monument stands just over 179 feet high and provides amazing views of the Belem neighborhood, Jerónimos Monastery, the 25 de Abril Bridge, the Cristo Rei statue,  the Torre de Belém and of course the river itself.

#monumentofdiscoveries

The observation deck is on the very top and although the views are tremendous there isn’t much room so it’s hard to linger. There is an elevator available, but Simon and I decided to walk up the stairs. Not sure what we were thinking?! The cost to go up is minimal and I’d say it was worth it!

View of the Monument with the 25th of April Bridge and the Cristo Rei Statue
The Tower of Belem in the distance
Jeronimo Monastery
Lisbon’s own Golden Gate Bridge

The square in front of the monument is dominated by an enormous compass rose made of black and red limestone. It’s an incredible work of art with many detailed symbols which represent the main routes of Portuguese exploration in the 15th and 16th centuries. I did my best to get an ariel photo, but even at 179 feet up I wan’t able to get it all in!

#compassroselisbon


A short walk down the river from The Monument is the Torre de Belém or the Tower of Belem. There is a military and maritime museum inside the Tower, but our time was limited and we decided not to go in. The Tower, located just offshore in the Tagus River, is accessed via a short elevated walkway. Because of its role during the Age of Discoveries the 500 year old Tower is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built not only as part of the city’s defense system, but also as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. It’s quite an impressive piece of architecture and we spent some time just admiring the view.

#torredebelem

While walking along the river we came upon a number of food trucks and as is often our habit during the day we stopped and had a quick bite to eat. We came upon a few different drink carts, one of which was selling interesting looking lemonade cocktails and the other a red wine cart with inviting little chairs. but… places to go and things to see…

I would have loved to stop for one of these…
Can you tell there is a hot dog and fries under all that cheese?!

Across the street from the Tower and the Monument is the Jerónimos Monastery. Building started in 1496 and finished a century later. I read that the monks of the Order provided spiritual guidance to seafarers. These are the same monks who created Pasteis de Belem or Pastel de Nata the most famous of all the Portuguese desserts!

Unfortunately most of the buildings were closed by the time we arrived, but we were able to enter the Sta. Maria Church where we saw the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões. The Church was beautiful and I must admit I wished I had a little more time to wander and to see the rest of the Monastery. Guess we should have gotten up a bit earlier…

Elliot loved these baby ducks swimming in the fountain!
Stopping to get a drink and some new shades
Lisbon’s Modern Art Museum is also in Belem

Speaking of wandering… Once the Monastery had closed we visited the famous Pasteis de Belem located just across the road and then spent some time wandering through the streets of Belem before we decided to give the kids a break and head somewhere just for them… Oceanário de Lisboa!

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Portugal! Oh The Sweets… & Other Treats!

#pasteldenata

One of the more fun and interesting things about visiting a new place is trying the traditional foods! Sometimes you love them and sometimes you don’t, but either way, memories are made! We definitely found some gems while visiting Portugal!

The Sweets!

We wasted no time getting started as upon arrival at the hotel we were greeted by a lovely tray of Pastel de Nata, a flaky pastry shell filled with egg custard, which is the most famous of all the Portuguese desserts.

We soon discovered that these lovely little gems were available just about everywhere! Having never heard of them before it was funny that only one week before my trip, my mom told me she had just had the most amazing desert at a local restaurant, a Portuguese Tart!

The most famous place to get Pastel de Nata is also where they originate from. Pasteis de Belem is located in the neighborhood of the same name and can easily be spotted because there is always a line out the door. They’ve been using the same secret recipe since the monks of the Jeronimo Monastery opened the shop 1834!

This is what one of my fellow bloggers had to say about them:

These pastries are ephemeral bites of cinnamon and warmth. They must be eaten right away, never saved for later. Every coffee shop in Portugal produces an imitation, but none quite captures the lightness of the dough, the creaminess of the filling. These imitations even bear a different name: “pasteis de nata.” Because there is only one place in the world where you can get “pasteis de Belém.”

There were Pastelarias (bakeries) on just about every corner in every city we visited and we definitely enjoyed visiting them! Some of the other items we tried were the Bola de Berlim which is essentially a round fluffy donut coated with sugar and filled with various flavors of pastry cream, the palmier recheado, a palmier sandwich filled with creme that tasted a lot like an American Twinkie, the Pão de Ló, a Portuguese sponge cake, and my personal favorite the Queijadas De Sintra which is a little cheesecake tart made with cinnamon.

Bola de Berlim
palmier recheado
Queijadas De Sintra Sapa
Pão de Ló with chocolate!

The Other Treats!

#PortuguesecheseWhile the Portuguese sweets were delicious and plentiful, I’m really more interested in savory tastes and my favorite food find in Portugal was definitely the cheese!

Upon being seated most restaurants will offer you a small plate of miniature cheeses, a basket of bread and maybe even a plate of meats or olives. Keep in mind that unlike in other countries these items are not complimentary, in fact you’ll be charged for each piece of bread, wheel of cheese, pat of butter or spread package that you open. Upon further examination we noticed that these menu items had a PP after them and are sold “per piece”.

Back to the cheese… As I said most restaurants gave us these little wheels of cheese as appetizers and we really loved them! We tried a number of different types and for the most part they were fairly mild with a medium texture. There were a few that were a little more on the fragrant side, but all were great! I’m quite sure that given the opportunity, Simon would have eaten just cheese at every meal! It took a few meals but we soon realized there was a proper way to eat them. Slicing off the top of the rind created a little bowl of sorts which made it easy to scoop out the cheese. It made a great spread for the bread too!

#codfishcakes

Pastéis de bacalhau, or codfish pastries are another very popular item in Portuguese cuisine and are made up mainly of potatoes, bacalhau (codfish) and eggs. They are deep-fried and can also be stuffed with other ingredients like the one in my photo which is filled with melted cheese. Careful when you take a bite or the hot cheese can burn your hand and mouth. We had these in a number of locations and while it wasn’t my personal favorite Simon liked them enough to have them a number of times.

#tostamistaWe found ourselves eating a number of meals on the go during out visit and a popular item for all of us was the Tosta Mista or ham and cheese sandwich on crusty bread.

#sangriablancoOf course we needed a beverage to go with all of this lovely food and my drink of choice while in Portugal was the Sangria Blanco! A white wine mixture with cinnamon, fresh fruit and other ingredients. The perfect drink on a hot day!