Japan! Adventures in Cuisine!

#shrimp

#tempurawithsaltHeading to Japan for the first time there were many unknowns, but whether or not we would enjoy the food wasn’t one of them! In fact, considering how much we all love Japanese cuisine, loving it was pretty much a guarantee!

While it’s true that most cuisines are more authentic when eaten in the countries they originate from, I can now say (after our visit) that Japanese restaurants in America do a pretty great job. However, that doesn’t mean there aren’t some pretty big differences. Eating Japanese food in Japan is absolutely different then eating it here in the states for a number of reasons.

You’ll find a variety of choices on the menus in the US, but in Japan most restaurants specialize in only one cuisine, so if you want ramen and sushi you’ll need to visit two different restaurants. The variety and type of food served is also quite different, for example you’ll be hard pressed to find horse sushi or tempura lotus here in the States. The choices can seem quite bizarre and even downright exotic.

A lot of restaurants have plastic food displays or photos of food on the menu, however this is no indication of the quality of the establishment, the chances that the food will still be great are high! In fact, these practices are quite common and can prove quite helpful when faced with trying to read a menu written in only Japanese.

Converting ¥ to $ A Cautionary Tale

Based on our love of Japanese cuisine, Simon had come up with a list of foods that he wanted to try while on our trip. We had done a pretty good job of checking everything off the list, with the exception of one item, his favorite, tempura.

Ginza

It was our last night in Japan and as is our usual habit we were wandering aimlessly looking for a place to eat. We were in Ginza and though there were retail stores aplenty we were having trouble finding a tempura restaurant.

When we finally found an acceptable place with an available table we didn’t think twice… In hindsight I should have noticed that the Yelp listing had multiple dollar signs, but we were very hungry, and not a little impatient…Oops!

The restaurant, Ten-Ichi, while not a dive didn’t seem all that remarkable either, and along with the menus we were given aprons, which added to what seemed like a fairly laid back atmosphere. The menu was a list of what seemed to be all-inclusive dinners for very reasonable prices, and Simon and I chose the same meal, Tim picked another and Elliot still another.

The waitress spoke no English and we spoke no Japanese. We placed our order by pointing at the menu. Immediately she shook her head “no”. What was she trying to tell us? We had NO idea! Each meal included multiple courses; maybe it was too much food? We pointed at Elliot and shook our heads “no” as if to say, “does he need his own meal?” We signaled back and forth a few more times and it seemed like everything was worked out. Our order had been placed…

What Seems too Good to be True is TOO Good to be True.

Our meal was fantastic! It was hands down the best meal we had the entire trip! Tempura in Japan was incredible and nothing like anything we’d in the States. The batter was light as air, the house made sauce was divine, and we learned a new way to enjoy tempura, a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of salt. Heavenly! It had been the perfect way to end what we all considered the vacation of a lifetime! A good thing too, because…

A short while later after we’d enjoyed our meal and a few glasses of wine, the check arrived… I wish I had a photo of the look on Tim’s face when he told me the check was the equivalent of just about all the dinners we’d had the entire trip, combined! Yes, that is right! All the dinners! Combined!

We’d made a mistake converting the ¥ to $ and instead of my entree being $19.00 it was really $190.00… you get the idea! It was lucky for us that this restaurant accepted credit cards, as many places in Japan do not. Sticker shock aside, we all agreed that not only was it truly the best meal of our trip, but maybe the best one we’d ever had!

Later, when I spoke with Simon about it, he said, he’d known all along just how expensive the entrees were, but because earlier on I’d asked him to let Tim and I worry about the expense of our trip, he assumed we knew what we were doing. Clearly we did not!

Lessons learned:

  • Wear your glasses when reading the menu!
  • When mom says yes to a $190.00 dinner entree she doesn’t really mean it because obviously she isn’t wearing her glasses and doesn’t realize what she’s agreeing to! Say something!

The good news:

  • Not only will we never forget this fabulous meal, but it I can’t think of a single meal we didn’t love while visiting Japan!

A Word About Credit/Debit Cards

Keep in mind many places in Japan do not accept credit cards and if you’re coming from the United States there is a high probability that your credit and debit cards won’t work in most ATMs. ATMs located in 7-Elevens should work, but getting cash can be difficult and it’s a good idea to plan ahead, so you don’t run out.

Japan! Experiencing Hanami!

#sakuraskySpringtime in Japan is breathtakingly beautiful, so It’s no wonder that people come from all over the world to see it! The cherry trees are in bloom and they are everywhere!

Ueno Park

#sakurablossomsWalking among the thousands of trees in Tokyo’s Ueno Park you can’t believe how lovely it is! Magical really! The branches are overflowing with blossoms and they stretched out over our heads creating canopies of pink, white and blue sky. I didn’t know where to point my camera first! Of course everyone else wants to take a photo too, so you have to be careful to look where you’re going. There aren’t just thousands of beautiful trees, but thousands of people too! As many as two million people might come to see the blossoms in a given year.

This activity is called Hanami which literally translates to “flower viewing” and it is popular activity for all ages. So much so that the sakura blossom forecast is reported by local weather forecasters. Additionally, there are websites you can visit that will help you determine the different bloom forecasts depending on where and when you plan to visit. And of course there are sakura festivals in many places. It’s quite popular for the younger generations to picnic under the blooming trees and while we didn’t do this ourselves we did have the opportunity to walk through the park and see the literally hundreds of people picnicking! It did look fun!

Beyond The Blossoms

#gojoshrineThere are many things to see and do in Ueno Park beyond hanami.  We discovered fabulous food stalls, a shrine, the remnants of a giant Buddha statue, beautiful torii gates, the Ueno Zoo and swan boats in Shinobazu Pond. There are also a number of large museums, but even with multiple visits we simply ran out of time.

I’m not sure if the food stalls are in the park all year round, but there were many food options when we were there and Elliot did his best to hit every single one! He wanted to stop at practically every place and try something new. Many places in Japan don’t take debit cards or credit cards and we actually ran out of cash before Elliot was done eating!

Shinobazu Pond

Shinobazu Pond is located within Ueno Park and there is a lovely island right in the middle. During the sakura festival the pathway leading there is lined with even more food options! We found some yummy desserts and then visited The Bentendo Temple. I read that the temple is dedicated to the Goddess of good fortune, wealth, music, and knowledge. I like it!

There is a pedal boat ride in the pond and the boats are colorful swans! The boys really wanted to go for a ride, but the swans only held three people at a time, so I spent some time taking photos of the shrine and more blossom photos while they pedaled around with Tim. Perfect!

 The Ueno Great Buddha

#uenobuddah

Located just up the hill from the main avenue of cherry trees is the face of what was once a very large statue of Buddha. This was the second great Buddha to stand in this spot. The first one was destroyed in an earthquake in 1647! The second one was also heavily damaged in the 1923 earthquake. Only the face remains because the rest of the 3.6 meter tall statue was melted down to make weapons in WWII.

The Ueno Zoo

#TokyoZooAs we often do when traveling with the boys we visited the zoo!  We had a nice afternoon and saw a few animals that we’ve never seen in any western zoos. That was fun!

Japan! Tokyo… A City of Many Contrasts

Yoyogi Park Tokyo Shibuya

Japan is a land of many contrasts. It’s a place where centuries old traditions and cutting edge modern technology come together and coexist side by side in harmony. This is part of what makes Japan such a special and magical place. Nowhere did this seem more apparent than Tokyo. The modern architecture and bright lights of Ginza are just steps from the Imperial Palace, The ancient buddhist temple of Zojo-ji resting in the shadow of the Tokyo Tower, and the softness of the pink and white cherry blossoms up against the hard grey metal of the city’s skyscrapers are just a few examples of the many contrasts we saw in our travels. Where else do you find 5 star restaurants with their world-class food displayed out front in the form of realistic plastic models?

Here’s a look at a few of the ancient and modern sights we saw while in Tokyo. Some of them were in the same place!

Senso-Ji Temple

#sensojitempleLocated in the Asakusa district the Senso-ji Temple is Tokyo’s oldest temple. The approach leading up to the entrance of the temple is called Nakamise-dori and it is lined with souvenir shops. They are selling exactly what you would expect Japanese tourist shops to sell, fans, Godzilla toys, kimonos, buddhist scrolls, candy, mobile phone straps and a lot of other “stuff”.

This was our first stop in Tokyo and in hindsight I wish this wasn’t the case. The Temple itself is beautiful and surrounded by many other places of interest, but this is a very popular tourist destination and with more than 30 million visitors each year it was extremely crowded! The combination of junky stuff for sale and the large crowds was somewhat off-putting and because of it I think Asakusa was probably my least favorite neighborhood. In fairness It was our very first stop and we were still adjusting to jet-lag. The Asakusa district was largely destroyed by bombing in WWII and a lot of it was rebuilt in the 50s and 60s. It definitely has a 60s-ish vibe to it.

Meiji Shrine

The Meiji Shrine is located in a large forest adjacent to one of Tokyo’s biggest parks, Yoyogi Park. I really enjoyed this! It was raining quite heavily the day we visited, but we chose to walk through the park anyway. We originally hail from Seattle, so a little rain won’t stop us! The cherry blossoms really stood out against the grey skies and with all the tall buildings surrounding the park it was really quite beautiful.

Dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shōken, the Meiji Shrine was first built-in 1920 and is relatively new compared to some of the others we visited. Beyond visiting the shrine itself the surrounding gardens have many things to see as well. We wandered through a tea garden, saw royal fishing ponds, and the Otorii Gate which is the largest of its kind in Japan. Walking along the pathway you’ll find a large display of both sake and red wine barrels which were donated in honor of the enshrined deities. We were also lucky enough to see a Shinto wedding taking place during our visit!

When visiting shrines it is polite to pay your respects. You do this by performing a series of actions that are independent of religious beliefs, but show your respect to the sanctity of the place. Once I got the hang of these rituals I rather enjoyed completing them.

A funny side note: It was just after our visit to the Meiji Shrine that I stumbled upon the Harajuku District. I had my mind set on visiting the Rag & Bone Store and knew it was “nearby”. We never actually located the shop, but it was while we were wandering aimlessly, okay lost, looking for it, that we found Takeshita Street which was probably one of my favorite experiences of the entire trip!

Zojo-ji

Zojo-ji is a Buddhist temple in the Shiba neighborhood of Minato. It sits in the shadow of the Tokyo Tower. Founded in 1393 the Temple has been in its present site since 1598, long before the Tokyo Tower was in existence! On the day we visited there was a parade taking place on the street leading up to the Temple gates. The contrast of the people dressed very traditionally with the very modern looking Tokyo Tower in the background made quite an impact on me. I love how even with the introduction of new and modern ideas sprouting up all around the people still hold their traditions close.

Jizo Statues

While exploring the grounds of Zojo-ji we came upon an unusual garden. Row after row of tiny little statues all dressed up with flowers and other cheerful items placed around them. The statues represent the unborn children of Japan. Parents who have suffered a loss can chose a statue and decorate it. Often the parents will leave a little gift for Jizo, the guardian of unborn children, to ensure that they are brought to the afterlife.

It was the last day of our Japan adventure and the cherry blossoms were just starting to fall from the trees. Like snow flurries in the air and a light dusting on the ground. The timing of our trip couldn’t have been more perfect!

The Tokyo Skytree

On our last night in Japan we visited the Tokyo Skytree, a broadcasting tower and tourist attraction, located in the Sumida district. However, we decided we were too tired and cold to make the trip up to the observation deck. As of 2011 it was the tallest tower in the world and based on the description of the tower it’s clear that the many contrasts of Tokyo and Japan are not only accepted by the Japanese people, but embraced! The Tokyo Skytree was designed to represent a place where tradition and the future can meet. It is a very modern structure which has been designed with centuries of tradition in mind.

TOKYO SKYTREE is designed in an original color, “SKYTREE White”, representing harmony with the surrounding scenery, its name and the design concept: “The creation of city scenery transcending time: A fusion of traditional Japanese beauty and neo-futuristic design”.

Japan! Kawaii Means Cute & Other Japanese Cultural Phenomena!

#kawaiiBeyond unique scenery, ancient temples, and the many bright lights of Tokyo you’ll find that Japan is overflowing with other fascinating cultural experiences. Toilets with self lifting lids, Kawaii or Japan’s cute culture, and unusual snack foods are just a few! We found surprise and delight around just about every corner!

Kawaii

#tamagoman

The word Kawaii means cute, adorable, or lovable and is a major part of Japanese culture! It’s everywhere, painted on airplanes, bank logos, entertainment, clothing, food, toys, and even affects personal appearance and mannerisms.

Kawaii is also a very popular fashion look! Unlike many other cultures where women often want to look more glamorous or sexy, many young women are wanting to appear just the opposite. Trying hard to look and sound as sweet, young and cute as possible.

Takeshita Street, located in the Harajuku district of Tokyo, is a pedestrian street and a great place to see many examples of trendy Japanese fashion. Wandering around you might see Sweet Lolita, Gothic Lolita, Kawaii, and Cosplay. Many of these styles which seem more like costumes to Americans are not unusual as everyday attire for the young people in Japan. You’ll see women wearing what look to be little girl dresses complete with lace collars, petticoats and even parasols. I especially loved seeing the fun makeup and accessories and have even adopted a few of the fun ideas I saw during my visit!

Other popular things to do on Takeshita Street besides “seeing and being seen” are shopping and eating crepes. Though there are many crepe shops, the lines can be long. The crowds of Harajuku Girls are thick and they are moving fast. The day we visited It was raining incredibly hard and every single person had an umbrella! The moment we stepped into the street it was like being swept up into the tide and it was all we could do to “get over” to the side again and catch our breath! Not only was this an incredibly fun place to visit, it was truly a moment I will never forget!

Hello Kitty


#peekabookittyHello Kitty is everywhere in Japan! All the places you’d expect her to be like toy stores and clothing shops and many places you wouldn’t. Ancient medieval temples and shrines, yep, she’s there! Lingerie shop, check! Florists, food carts, the side of airplanes, she’s there too. She even has her very own shop in the airport. There isn’t anything you can’t get with Hello Kitty on it.

Pokemon

#gottacatchemallOf course with two boys in our house there was no way we were going all the way to Japan, the birthplace of Pokemon, and not going to the actual Pokemon store. There’s really not too much to say about this except that it was a dream come true for my boys and as I’ve mentioned in previous posts, we always try to make sure the boys get to pick some activities of their own while on vacation. Of course we picked up some Pokemon swag while there, Pokemon Pocky, a new lunch box, various coloring books and spent quite a long time just browsing around. If you have boys or girls who like Pokemon, good luck getting out of this one! 😉

Kit Kats

#kittokattoThe Japanese people love Kit Kat bars in fact believe it or not they are the number one candy in Japan! The name Kit Kat sounds very similar to a Japanese saying, “Kitto Katsu” or “Kitto Katto” which is a good luck term meaning “you will surely win” and it is often said to students before a big exam. The Kit Kat bar is so popular that not only does it come in all sorts of unusual and regional specialty flavors, but recently an actual Kit Kat shop was opened in Tokyo. The little shop is located on the dessert floor of the department store Seibu. They have limited flavors available at the shop so if you’re on the hunt for unusual flavors you might fare better at convenience stores or other shops which sell candy.

The boys and I decided that it would be fun to bring back as many flavors as we could find! We were on a mission! By the time our trip ended we had located 8 different flavors: cinnamon, green tea, strawberry, cheesecake, dark, chilli pepper, pudding, and sakura green tea. We brought them back and had our friends over for a Kit Kat tasting party! Everyone was pretty surprised at how much they liked all the flavors. The two favorites were pudding which we actually heated in the toaster oven and strawberry. Tim occasionally travels to Japan for business and at times brings us back new flavors. Our most recent tasting was rum raisin.

Vending machines

#vendingmachineseverywhereThere are more than 5.52 million vending machines in Japan! 5.52 MILLION! WOW! That’s one per every 23 people! Most of them sell drinks, but you can buy just about anything from them! We saw a bread vending machine which was pretty weird and cool! Some restaurants require that you choose your entree from a vending machine and then bring your ticket to the server. This isn not an indication of how good the food will be!

A few days after arriving in Japan we realized that not only is getting food “to go” not really a thing, but there aren’t really any trash cans on the sidewalks. It’s considered rude to walk around eating and drinking so you’ll find that most vending machines have trashcans next to them as well as a spot to stand and drink or eat your purchase.

Lost In Translation

It’s a good chance that when you’re in a place where there is almost no english spoken or written you’re going to find a few places where things were “lost in translation”. We didn’t see too many examples of this, but we had a good natured laugh at  the few we saw which were pretty tame.

Japanese Toilets

#supertoiletJapanese toilets are really quite something and while I don’t have any personal photos of this particular subject, it is definitely worth mentioning! We did encounter a few places with squat toilets where there was little more than a hole in the ground (this seemed to be more common in men’s rooms as I never saw it), most of the time the toilets went way beyond standard and bordered on downright fancy. Some even had sensors that knew when you entered the room and the lid would automatically raise, while others had buttons for “fake flushing sounds” and also doubled as bidets complete with dryers. Even the public restrooms in the parks we visited had heated seats. I’m not sure I need all those other bells and whistles, but (no pun intended) I sure appreciated the heated seats!

Face masks

When visiting Japan you’ll notice that many people wear surgical face masks in public. When we first arrived it seemed very obvious and foreign to us, but after a few days we got used to seeing it everywhere and it became a normal. There are many theories about why the Japanese people wear them. We asked our Kyoto guide Kenzo and he gave a number of reasons, allergies, the spread of germs, and not wanting to be social were just a few.

Japan Tips For First Time Visitors

Having traveled extensively in the United States and Europe, the boys and were excited to visit Japan. A lifelong dream, it turned out to be everything I had hoped for and more!  We all agreed it was the best family vacation we’d ever been on and the trip of a lifetime!

#shinjuku

I won’t pretend the idea of traveling to a place where we wouldn’t be able to understand the language or even recognize the letters wasn’t a bit nerve-wracking, but this would be a completely new experience! A true adventure! We knew everything might seem and feel different, but that was part of the excitement. In many ways it was what made this trip so magical!

#noideawhatitsays

Unlike many western countries you won’t find that a lot of people speak English. In fact just the opposite, however we didn’t find this to be a problem and with the exception of one funny incident in a restaurant where we paid way too much we got along just fine!  We learned to say a few basic words before we left and did our best to use them whenever we could!

When To Go

#holycherryblossomsAfter 15 years of talking about going to Japan we wanted to make sure we got it right! We had 10 days to explore and decided on two cities, Tokyo and Kyoto. We determined the best time of year to visit would be spring, so we could see the cherry trees in bloom.

#blossoms
Yoyogi Park Tokyo Shibuya

If we ever get a chance to go back I’d love to see the autumn leaves which are also known to be breathtaking! Tokyo has well over 50 major neighborhoods and they’re all special, so we split our Tokyo time between two neighborhoods Shinjuku and Ginza with an additional 3 nights in Kyoto. If you’re planning to go during cherry blossom season I highly suggest booking everything as early as possible and for the best choice of hotels I recommend booking at least 6 months in advance!

Getting Around

Planes/Trains

minipilotsWe flew into Narita Airport which is, depending on the mode of transportation you choose, 60 – 90 minutes from Tokyo. After researching trains, buses and taxis we found taking the train to be the best and most convenient option for us. We took the JR Narita Express which is covered by the Japan Rail Pass. The taxi was by far the most expensive option as you’ll have traffic to contend with on your way into the city.

Do keep in mind that the lines to get through customs upon arrival can be quite long. Three hours after we landed we finally made it to our hotel.

Shinkansen

If you’re planning to visit more than one city on your trip I strongly recommend you consider the Japan Rail Pass. The JR Pass must be purchased prior to arriving in the country as they are only available to non-residents of Japan visiting for tourism. The most economical way to get from city to city they can also be used in city on certain train lines and for transport from the airport and back. They are offered in 7, 14 and 21 day options.

Purchasing the JR Pass is easy. We purchased ours through a local travel agency who specializes in Asian travel. It can take a few weeks, so contact them as soon as you’ve decided on your travel dates.

When you arrive at the airport take your JR Pass vouchers to the JR Pass Office where they will be exchanged for the actual passes. The people were incredibly helpful, friendly and much to our relief they spoke english. We were able to get all the information we needed to catch the JR Express into the city as well as information about taking the bullet train (Shinkansen) to Kyoto.

Depending on what cities you’re planning to visit you might want to look into reserved seats on the Shinkansen as well as information about the different stations. Keep in mind that the trains always leave on time. Plan on being on the platform a few minutes prior to whatever time you are expecting the train to arrive or you will miss it.

What would have been an 8 hour drive to Kyoto was only a 2 hour 20 minute bullet train ride. If you’re hungry there are light refreshments on the trains, though at first, due to the language barrier, we were a little shy about ordering from the refreshment cart. Eventually hunger and curiosity got the better of us and we were able to point at what we wanted, which worked out fine.

Taxis

br7tbWe trained back and forth to the airport and to Kyoto, but found we didn’t use them much within the actual cities. We chose to take taxis from place to place. This isn’t the most economical way to travel, but it’s very convenient and a great way to see a lot of the city.

Hailing and using taxis in Japan is quite different from any other city I’ve been to. While hailing the cab is the same, there are some other major differences. For example, you don’t actually open the taxi door by yourself. It’s opened and closed remotely by the driver. It took us quite a while to get used to this, and it’s considered poor manners to open and close the door yourself unless you exit or enter the vehicle from the right side.

#Ginkakuji
Gardens of Ginkaku-ji Temple of the Silver Pavilion Kyoto

If you don’t speak Japanese it’s perfectly acceptable to give them your destination address on a piece of paper or alternatively we showed them where we wanted to go on the map. Tipping is not common in Japan and in most situations it can be considered offensive. However, if you decide to tip the driver it’s appropriate to round up when paying the fare.

Green means stop and red means go! Yep, a red symbol lets you know the cab is available and a green one lets you know it’s occupied.

 

Helpful Words

Japanese is an incredibly complex language, but we did learn a few words, and really enjoyed trying to speak to people as much as we could. Our attempts, though somewhat botched, were really appreciated. It’s always nice to be able to say hello and thank you and excuse me was extremely helpful in many situations!

Arigato = thank you

Arigatougozaimasu = Formal Thank You

Sumimasen = Excuse Me

Ohayougozaimasu = Good Morning

Konnichiwa = Good Afternoon

Sayonara = Goodbye

Other posts about Japan

Japan! Kawaii Means Cute & Other Japanese Cultural Phenomena!
Japan! Tokyo… No Wasabi Kudasai!
Japan! Experiencing Hanami!
Japan! Tokyo… A City of Many Contrasts
Japan! Three days in Kyoto!
#shinjukusunset
Sunset from the 43rd Floor Park Hyatt Shinjuku Tokyo

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First time visit to Japan with kids #japanwithkids #familytravel #japan #tipsforjapanwithkids