24 Hours In London!
Año Nuevo State Park!
The Bay Area is home to some of the world’s most beautiful scenery and a place people come from all over the world to see. Having all this beauty in our “backyard” I’m a little embarrassed to admit we don’t always appreciate or take advantage of it the way we should. There are still so many places we’ve yet to explore.
One of those places was the Año Nuevo State Reserve, home to a large colony of Northern Elephant Seals and located about 90 minutes south of San Francisco. The Reserve offers docent led nature walks enabling you to get within 25 feet of these incredible animals in their natural habitat.
Weighing up to 5000 pounds these enormous creatures look like they would be slow and clumsy, but it’s just the opposite! 25 feet sounds like a decent margin of space until you learn they can easily move that distance in a matter of seconds.
We’d only gone a short distance along the trail before we started hearing the unique guttural sounds of the seals. The way the sound traveled on the wind and across the dunes made it difficult to pinpoint exactly where it was coming from. There is limited visibility when walking among the dunes so there are ranger lookouts posted along the walk letting the volunteer guides know which pathways are safe and which should be avoided.
Early on in our visit our lookout called out to the guide, an alpha male was defending his territory, we’d better get moving! One moment the alpha was resting in the sand and the next our guide was telling us to move out of the way. The alpha male arched up and bellowed before charging down the side of the dune toward the offending male and our group! Exciting and a bit scary too!
Not only is it mating season, but there are also seal pups being born as well. We were able to see some pups nursing during the visit. We were surprised to find out that the babies only stay with their mothers for the first 28 days of their lives.
Reservations And Other Need To Know Information
Although the Elephant Seals are in residence all year long the most popular time to see them is mating season which takes place between December 15 and March 31. Keep in mind Reservations are required for the guided walks and the number of attendees is limited. Self-guided walks are prohibited during mating season.
The tours take place rain or shine and umbrellas are not permitted. It rained quite heavily during most of our visit and while it would have been nice to stay dry the plus side was that the Seals love a rainy day and were pretty active while we were there.
You’ll be walking three miles roundtrip and the terrain is a mix of gravel, dirt and sand, but overall it wasn’t a terribly difficult walk. Our group ranged in age from seven to seventy-three and although none of us had any trouble physically my seven year old lost interest during the lengthy nature talk. The scenery was really lovely and as usual I had a difficult time choosing which photos to include!
Spain: Toledo A City Of Three Cultures!
Once upon a time there was a place where Christians, Jews and Muslims all lived together in relative harmony… Known as the “City of Three Cultures” Toledo, a walled city located in central Spain, was once such a place. It was largely for this reason that it was declared a world heritage site in 1987. We spent three days exploring the narrow cobbled streets of this amazing medieval city and with over 2000 years of history there was no shortage of things to see.
Cathedral of Toledo
Having learned my lesson about unpredictable visiting hours in other Spanish cities, I decided our first order of business would be to see the Cathedral. It’s a good thing we did, because after 6 pm on our first day the Cathedral was closed to tourists, the entirety of our visit, in observance of The Ascension of Mary.
Located in Ayuntamiento Plaza, according to our guide, The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo is the second largest cathedral in Spain and the most important. The tower of the Cathedral is 301 feet tall and can be seen from almost anywhere in the city. The inside spaces are incredibly beautiful, and this is definitely not a case of “you’ve seen one you’ve seen them all.” Photos aren’t really allowed, but I did sneak a few, I just couldn’t help it!
The Jewish Quarter
The Jewish Quarter in Toledo is a popular tourist destination. You can’t miss it because it is very clearly marked with signs and tiles inlaid into the walls and streets surrounding it. At night there are images in Spanish, English and Hebrew projected onto the streets letting you know you’ve arrived.
Today, there are no operational synagogues within the walls of the old Medieval City. However there are two former synagogues and a mosque which are available to visit, all three of which are now designated as museums.
Synagogue of El Transito
El Transito a former synagogue dating back to the mid 14th century was built in the Mudejar style and is now the Museo Sefardi.
Santa María la Blanca
Santa María la Blanca, also a museum and former synagogue, was built in 1180 some believe it to be the oldest synagogue building in Europe which is still standing. It is now owned and preserved by the Catholic Church.
While in Toledo we stayed in the Jewish quarter at the Hotel Pintor El Greco. The hotel and location were great, only steps from the El Greco Museum and within easy walking distance of both synagogues, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, one of El Greco’s most famous works and many other sights.
Other Major Sights
Mezquita Cristo de la Luz
Built in 999 on the site of a former church the Mosque of Cristo de la Luz is the only surviving Moorish mosque in the city of Toledo that remains virtually unchanged since its construction.
Puerto Del Sol
One of Toledo’s City gates the Puerto Del Sol is not far from Cristo de la Luz.
Monasterio de San Juan De Los Reyes
The Monasterio de San Juan De Los Reyes was founded by King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella I of Castile. Originally it was to be their final resting place, but they later changed their minds and chose to be buried in Granada instead.
Unfortunately we were unable to visit the inside due to a wedding taking place, but we were able to walk through the cloisters and other areas of the monastery. The exterior of the monastery, per the Queen’s order, is covered in manacles and shackles worn by christian prisoners from Granada who were released during the Reconquista.
Iglesia De Los Jesuitas
Cortes De Castilla-La Mancha
What Else is Toledo Famous For?
Toledo is not only known for its religious history, but also for its weapon and armor production, Damasquinado jewelry, marzipan and of course it’s amazing Spanish cuisine.
All of us were fascinated not only by the amazing craftsmanship and variety of different swords, weaponry, metalware and jewelry available, but also by the sheer number of stores selling it! They were everywhere and I personally spent a lot of time admiring the handmade jewelry and even picked up a few things. Of course I did!
Hiring A Guide
We were somewhat surprised to find that unlike other cities we’ve visited in Spain, there was almost no english translation available anywhere. We spent the first day wishing we knew more Spanish and soon realized we would need to join a tour or hire a guide. English tours didn’t seem to be available but after some persistence on our part we were able to find and hire a private guide. Yolanda, a native of Toledo, was a wealth of knowledge and we spent two very informative hours with her.
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Take Me With You!
Would you like directions to all these fabulous places? Why not take me with you! you can download this and other fun hilarystyle articles using the GPSmyCity app!
Spain! The Alhambra!
History, architecture, beautiful gardens and craftsmanship beyond compare, the Alhambra has it all! Its also an immense fortress made up of many buildings including palaces, which made it high on my list of must see places. Located in Granada, Andalusia the Alhambra is one of Spain’s most popular tourist destinations and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We spent the better part of a day and evening exploring and still we weren’t able to see everything.
Though the original fortress was built in 889, it wasn’t until the mid-13th century that the current buildings and walls were renovated and built by moorish kings in the Mudéjar style. Although I did my best to try and capture it in pictures the intricacy and beauty of the carvings on the walls and ceilings inside the Nasrid Palaces must be seen to be believed.
Planning Your Visit
Due to extreme popularity and its delicate nature the number of visitors to the Alhambra is very limited. In fact they only allow 6,600 visitors in timed increments per day, so purchase your tickets as soon as you know you’re going. I can’t stress this enough especially if your visit will take place during the summer months.
Our visit took place in late September and there was only one day and time on the reservation calendar with availability. Lucky for us it was the one day we would be in town!
*YOU WON’T BE ABLE TO PURCHASE TICKETS THE DAY OF YOUR VISIT*
Okay, now that we’ve established that you’ll be planning ahead…
Tickets are purchased through the Ticketmaster website. There are many options to choose from for both day and night. We choose Alhambra General which includes all the highlights as well as the gardens and Alhambra at Night. The ticket buying process could be a bit smoother, but trust me its worth the hassle. For additional information on the ticket buying process check out this great post by WanderTooth!
Photo Frenzy!
A magical place, famous the world over, it’s no surprise that the Alhambra has been featured in literature, music, astronomy, and even video games! I definitely fell under its spell and hoping to capture some of what I was feeling I spent the day taking endless photos. I did my best to pick and choose but in the end it was tough to decide and I’ve probably included too many. I hope you enjoy them!
Now That’s What I Call A Picture Window
The Generalife Gardens
Campers at the Alhambra Granada, Spain
The Nasrid Palaces – Day & Night
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Charles V Palace
Granada
Most of our time in Granada was spent visiting the Alhambra, but the little we did see we liked very much! Our reservation wasn’t until 2 pm which gave us time to walk around town and have a leisurely lunch. We enjoyed our lunch so much we went back to the same restaurant for dinner!
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An Afternoon in Seville!
Seville is the capital of Andalusia and one of Spain’s largest cities. Famous for tapas, bullfighting and Flamenco dancing it’s a place worth spending time in. Unfortunately we didn’t have much and we had to choose between Seville and Granada, and because it was new for all of us, Granada won. It doesn’t hurt that its home to a really big castle! Sorry, Seville.
The good news is that we were on a road trip and we made sure that Seville was on the way! Not a bad place for a pitstop!
First Things First! Lunch!
If you’ve ever been then you know the food in Spain is something extra special! The moment we crossed the border from Portugal our mouths started watering in anticipation!
Lucky for us Tim had been to Seville before and he had the name of a favorite tapas place in his contact list! If you’ve been reading my blog you might remember that we often spend long periods of time wandering aimlessly while looking for a place to eat. This time we only had a few hours, so no time to waste!
Finding food the boys will enjoy can at times be a challenge, but thankfuly this isn’t the case in Spain! We ordered all of our favorites: Sangria, Jamón Iberico, chorizo, Manchego cheese, and calamari! It was a feast!
A Bit Of This And That
After lunch we spent a little time wandering around the Santa Cruz neighborhood, once the Jewish quarter of the medieval city its now the main tourist area of Seville.
Santa Cruz is also the location of the Cathedral of Seville, the Giralda Tower and the Real Alcázar.
The Cathedral Of Seville
I was disappointed to find that the Cathedral of Seville and Giralda Tower were closed during our visit, so we were unable to go inside. The Cathedral is so big it’s near impossible to get all of it in one photo. Just walking the perimeter was impressive, so I can only imagine how spectacular the inside must be.
The Real Alcázar
The Real Alcázar of Seville is a royal palace and it is still used by the royal family as their official Seville residence. It is open to visitors and if like me, you’re a Game of Thrones fan, you might be interested to know that the Real Alcázar is where they filmed the Water Garden scenes in season 5.
I wish I could say we had time to see more, but sadly we did not. We walked around the Patio de Banderas which has a great view of the Giralda Tower, but the day was getting late and it was time to hit the road.
While we didn’t have the kind of time needed do a city like Seville justice, we got a feel for it and are definitely looking forward to a return trip.
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The Algarve Pinch Me, Is This real?
Boasting some of Europe’s best beaches the Algarve Region of Portugal was on my list of must see places. After reading about the area’s amazing cave formations, crystal blue waters and year-round perfect weather this was the leg of our Portugal trip I was most excited for. The boys and I love to swim and Tim loves all things ocean, so a win for everyone.
Hitting It Out Of The park
the Algar Seco rock formations were located just steps from the resort where we were staying. There is an elevated cliff walk and upon further exploration we discovered that there are also stairways and paths which have been carved directly into the rocks.
At first my internal mom voice was absolutely freaking out. Okay, who was I kidding, it wasn’t just internal, but I begrudgingly let Tim take Simon to check it out. Elliot and I waited close to the stairs and enjoyed the view. I must have told him to sit down about 1000 times!
After a while Tim came back and reported that it would be safe for Elliot and I to go a little further. By this time the incredible beauty of the place coupled with the knowledge that this was a once in a lifetime experience won out over my fears. It didn’t hurt that an older couple complete with poodle appeared in the doorway a moment later! If it was safe for them it was safe for us, right?
We had arrived just before sunset and the timing couldn’t have been better! I wish I could describe to you the way it felt standing there on those rocks at the edge of the Atlantic as the sun was setting. Breathtaking, amazing, and spectacular are just a few of the words which came to mind.
Feeling Out Of This World…
The Restaurante Boneca Bar, nestled right into the side of the Algar Seco rock formation, has an almost otherworldly feel. The area’s beautiful weather lends itself to this being an all outdoor restaurant with 5 star views. We liked it so much we went back for lunch the next day.
At the edge of the restaurant’s terrace there are steps which lead down to a small passageway. At the end there is a tiny cave with “windows” which look out onto the ocean and there are benches carved into the walls making this a lovely little spot to watch the sun go down or steal a moment.
The Algar Seco Parque Resort
The Algarve is a very popular tourist destination and finding somewhere to stay off the beaten path was difficult. We found some of what we were looking for in Carvoeiro, a smaller town located between Lagos and Faro.
We choose the Algar Seco Parque resort, which was located just across the street from those spectacular cliffs I mentioned above and within walking distance to many beaches and restaurants. The accommodations were great, very affordable and we would definitely stay there again.
The Beaches
Praia da Marinha
First on my list was a beach that the Michelin Guide listed as one of the ten most beautiful beaches in Europe and as one of the one hundred most beautiful beaches in the world. Not only that, it’s on just about every other beach list too.
It did not disappoint. The Praia da Marinha was stunning, and the entire time we were there I kept thinking how amazing it was and that this couldn’t be real. There were high winds and surf that day, so swimming wasn’t permitted, but we relaxed on the sand, dipped our toes in the surf and took many photos.
The tide was coming in, so after a light snack at the beach bar we went on a portion of The Seven Hanging Valleys Walk, a signposted trail high above the beaches. Again the views are so stunning it was a pinch me is this real moment.
PRAIA DOS PESCADORES
Located 30 minutes down the road in Albufeira we arrived at Praia Dos Pescadores just in time for another jaw dropping sunset. The town of Albufeira is extremely touristy and after a quick look around we decided to head back to Carvoeiro for dinner.
Albufeira
Praia dos Pescadores
Praia dos Pescadores
Albufeira
Super Moon Chasers
Benagil Sea Cave
Unfortunately the same high winds that prevented swimming also foiled my plans to see the famous Benagil Sea Cave. I won’t lie, I was pretty disappointed, but part of traveling is understanding that things might not always work out exactly as planned. At least that’s what I keep telling myself.
The Super Moon Eclipse
Prior to the trip I purchased a long range lens and a tripod with the hopes of taking a few night photos. The Super Moon Eclipse was the perfect excuse! Although we had to set our alarm for a brutal 2:00 am, the clear star filled skies, remote location and the company of my son made for excellent viewing and a very worthwhile experience!
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Sintra! Where We Accidentally Hired A Fabulous Guide!
Just an hour outside Lisbon lies Sintra, a quaint little town with everything going for it, beauty, history and palaces galore! No wonder it’s a UNESCO world heritage site! We spent one day here and easily could have spent many more…
Sintra is where the Portuguese royals and nobility spent their summers and because of this just about every structure is a castle, palace or grand home. If staying in one appeals to you, you’re in luck because many of them have been converted into luxurious hotels.
When We Accidentally Hired A Fabulous Guide
As per our usual style we decided to get to Sintra and tour around on our own. I had read up on it and I knew if we did it right we could manage to see at least three of the main sights in one day.
Getting there was no trouble. The Rossio Rail Station was within walking distance of our hotel and with trains leaving for Sintra every 20 minutes until 11 pm we were in no rush. A roundtrip ticket is €5 and you can purchase your fare from the kiosks just before you board the train. Upon arrival at the Sintra station we followed the signs towards town.
Like Lisbon, Sinatra’s terrain is very steep and many of the main points of interest are located at the top of the hills. While walking from sight to sight is an option, this is not only time consuming but Simon had recently broken his ankle and walking long distances wasn’t going to work for us. We had heard about a bus that does a loop between three of the main palaces, but that meant we were on someone else’s schedule and that didn’t seem like a fit for us.
There is a large tourist center in town and there we were again advised to take the bus up the hill, the stop was just right outside… We purchased tickets to both the Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle ruins and decided, sigh, to check out the bus.
That’s when we saw him! The friendly looking fellow in the miniature bright orange plastic car! Should we ask him for a ride? We wondered what he would charge. The boys had been asking for a ride in one of “those” tiny cars. Okay, we’ll tell him we just want a ride, no tour…
We ended up having the best day and it was in large part to the driver of that charming little plastic car, Carlos Evora! He offered us the ride up the hill to Pena National Palace for €5 each, but “could he show us just one place on the way?” We quickly discovered that we had hit the tour guide jackpot! There was just something about him, not only did he take us to many lovely places we would have missed on our own, but he was incredibly friendly, kind to the children and a wealth of knowledge! He even surprised us midway through the day with tiny cakes from Queijadas da Sapa Cintra!
Tivoli Palácio de Seteais
We started our “we aren’t on a tour” with a quick stop at Tivoli Palácio de Seteais at one time a palace it’s now a 5 star hotel with amazing views of Pena National Palace and the surrounding valleys.
The 9th Gate Movie House
We’re big Johnny Depp fans in our house, so imagine our surprise and delight when we stopped for a look at one of the film locations from the 1999 Move The 9th Gate which I’m sure Tim has watched 50 times!
Pena National Palace
The main reason for our visit to Sintra was Pena Palace. In fact the moment I saw photos of this Palace which looks like something out of a fairytale I decided we were going! The palace is visible from many places within the Parque Natural de Sintra-Cascais and Carlos was kind enough to drive by many different view points so I could take photos! Once we arrived we spent about 90 minutes exploring.
The terrain is very steep
The views were spectacular
We walked along the walls of the Palace
Castelo dos Mouros
Carlos advised us not to use our tickets to the Moorish Castle. He suggested that because we had already visited the ruins of the Castelo de St. Jorge in Lisbon it might be redundant and maybe a bit boring for the kids. However, we were able to capture some great photos of it from the Pena Palace and along the road.
Cork Trees
Cork products are everywhere in Portugal and with good reason! Have you ever wondered where cork comes from? Did you know that close to 50% of the worlds cork comes from Portugal?! You’ll find everything from shoes to candy wrappers made from what is actually the bark of the Cork Oak Tree.
Quinta da Regaleira
If beautiful architecture, gardens, secret tunnels and hidden passageways appeal to you then don’t miss Quinta da Regaleira! All four of us really enjoyed our visit here! It was our last stop and we all wished we had discovered it earlier in the day. It was truly magical!
This looked like a tiny lookout…
It was hiding this hidden tunnel
We Ran Out of Time…
We didn’t have time to visit Monserrat or the National Palace of Sintra, but they’re both on my list for next time.
We had an amazing time with our new friend Carlos! Beyond what I mentioned above, we stopped at a number of other points of interest, saw eagles and parrots, and in general just throughly enjoyed driving up and down the hills of Sintra with such a lovely person who clearly loves what he does! Before we parted ways for the day he was kind enough to go over my itinerary for our final day in Lisbon and after such a successful day in Sintra we were only happy to take his advice!
Lisbon! Visiting the Oceanário de Lisboa
The question I’m asked most frequently when people find out that we are planning our next adventure is, “Are you bringing the kids?” The answer is always YES!
The next questions usually revolve around whether or not the kids enjoy travel and what we do to keep them occupied. Not that they weren’t always “go along” guys, but it’s definitely getting easier as they get older and while they are interested in seeing what each new city has to offer, it helps to allow time for some of the more family friendly attractions.
Most recently after a long hot day exploring fabulous Lisbon we decided that asking the kids to step inside one more church or monument might not be fair, so we decided to surprise them with a trip to the Oceanario de Lisboa, or the Lisbon aquarium. For the most part the monuments in Belem were already closing or would be soon and there was still time to make the Oceanarium.
The aquarium is located in the Parque das Nacoes, a newer more modern part of the city which was built up for the 1998 World Expo. It’s one the largest aquariums in the world and the largest one in Europe. Along with the usual favorites, like sea otters, penguins, sharks, rays and seahorses they also have an Ocean Sunfish which we were pretty excited to see!
Having visited a number of aquariums I was really impressed with the ease in which we were able to go from exhibit to exhibit. Even with limited time we were able to see everything without feeling rushed.
In the end what started out as a break for the kids turned out to be a really lovely experience for all of us!