Sainte Chapelle

Have you ever been to a place and were so surprised by its beauty that your mouth literally fell open? Were rendered speechless? This is exactly what happened to me while visiting Sainte Chapelle in Paris.

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In hindsight I wondered how could I have overlooked such a wondrous place? After all I do pride myself on being a knowledgable traveler. With almost unlimited information available it’s hard to believe I had never heard of these places, which played such important roles in French history, Sainte Chapelle and the Palace of Justice. That said, I’m giving myself a break because while I do appreciate love my expansive collection of guide books, I also think that an important part of being a good traveler is the ability to wing it, go with the flow and embrace the unexpected.

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The Palace of Justice (photo taken during our 2013 visit)

So, it was while we were doing just that, winging it on our last day in Paris, that we decided, as we happened to be walking by, to enter the Palace of Justice. The ticket clerk asked if we also wanted to see Sainte Chapelle … sure, “why not?” we said, completely clueless.

Sainte Chapelle

#saintechapelleConfession: It wasn’t immediately upon entering Sainte Chapelle that I discovered her jaw dropping beauty, I blundered around a bit first. Wondering, Is this it? It’s so small, there must be more? What am I missing? Turns out a lot!

Noticing the items for sale at the souvenir counter had photos of what looked to be a lovely, but obviously different place. I decided to enquire, “This is lovely, but is there more?” I don’t remember exactly what he said, but it amounted to: Yes, just over there through that tiny hardly noticeable nondescript door over in the corner .

Sainte Chapelle Paris France

As I emerged from the doorway into the main part of the chapel my mouth literally fell open. I was completely surrounded by jaw dropping beauty. No photo can really do it justice. The Stained glass was shimmering in the sunlight, the golden paint on the ceilings was glowing, I know I gasped in surprise and delight! I couldn’t get enough, and even joked that a place this beautiful could actually get someone to convert!

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#saintechapelle

Saint Chapelle, is showing her age and is currently undergoing a lengthy renovation, however in my opinion this faded splendor, as I like to call it, only added to her charm.

The Palace of Justice

#palaceofjustice
Even on a sunny day the light inside the Palace of Justice was dim.

Adjacent to the  Sainte Chapelle and beautiful in its own right is the Palace of Justice. Once the Palais Ile de Cite, it was home to French royalty until the 1400s. Later it became a revolutionary prison, at which time Sainte Chapelle became a place of final confession and prayer for those condemned by the tribunal. One such person, was Marie Antoinette and there is a memorial to both her and Louis XVI in the Palace.

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Stretching their legs a bit inside the Medieval Hall at the Palace of Justice.
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The memorial to Marie Antoinette and Louise XVI is through these curtains.

Tips and information:

  • To skip the line at Sainte Chapelle purchase your tickets inside the Palace of Justice, which seemed to be less crowded.
  • The medieval hall and exhibitions representing the revolutionary prison are fascinating and tied in perfectly with our recent trip to Versailles.
  • There is a lot to see and learn here, but we were able to see everything in about an hour, which appealed to my little one.
  • Sainte Chapelle was commissioned in 1238 by Louis IX to hold his collection of holy relics including Christ’s crown of thorns. The chapel sustained damage during the Revolution and the crown of thorns along with other surviving relics were moved to Notre Dame de Paris.
  • Like Notre Dame, the chapel was restored by the architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc.
  • The impressive stained glass inside the chapel, of which 2/3 is original, tells the story of both the old and new testaments.

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Notre Dame de Paris

#viewfromnotredame

#notredameYou know what they say, “Third times a charm”, and that’s exactly how I felt after our most recent visit to Notre Dame de Paris. Hardly able to remember the first occasion as I  was just a child, and battling large crowds and illness during our visit three and a half years ago, it wasn’t until the most recent visit that I really got a chance to appreciate this magnificent place!

#notredame

You might be wondering why we keep visiting the same place repeatedly when there is so much to see and do in a city the size of Paris? There are a number of reasons, but the simple answer is that a place this amazing deserves repeat visits.

Another, and more practical reason is that Simon wasn’t feeling well enough to climb the 387+ stairs to the top of the bell tower during our last visit and I promised him that if we ever came back it would be a priority. Simon has never met a staircase he didn’t consider a challenge, one reason why I don’t worry about finding time to exercise on our vacations. I know I’ll be guaranteed a workout anyway!

Tickets and Advice:

We loved this visit! However, to make the most of your time here a few things we wished we’d taken the time to know beforehand

  • If this is your first trip to Paris: Notre Dame de Paris is located on the île de la Cité in the 4th arrondissement and can be accessed in a variety of ways. We choose a bicycle cab!
  • 13 million people a year visit Notre Dame, so be prepared for large crowds. The lines to enter the Cathedral look daunting, but do move steadily. Once inside there are audio guides available, or you’re free to explore on your own.
  • Entrance to the Cathedral is free and all are welcome.
  • Suitcases and large back packs aren’t allowed into either the Cathedral or bell towers.  I whole heartedly agree with this rule, and if you’re interested in reading more about my feelings on backpacks click here!
  • The entry to visit the bell towers is located on the OUTSIDE of the Cathedral, on the left side of the West façade. This is separate from the entrance to the Cathedral’s interior. If you’re only interested in the bell towers there is no need to enter the cathedral.
  • Entrance to the bell towers is run independently by the Centre Des Monuments. There is no need to purchase tickets in advance just enter the line. Adults are 10 € and children under 18 are free with a paying adult.
  • The visit will take about 50 minutes and keep in mind there are no restrooms.
  • Only 20 people are admitted to the bell towers at a time. The next group is allowed in once the previous group has come down, about every 10 minutes.
  • Be prepared to climb. There are 387+ steps leading to the top of the bell tower. Wear proper shoes and clothing! We were behind a woman in high heel booties and it was obvious she was struggling the entire climb.
  • Each group will only be allowed 5 minutes at the top.
  • Once inside and just before you climb the steps you’ll listen to a brief talk and have an opportunity to purchase items at a small gift shop. If you see something you want, purchase it, because you won’t be going back the same way.
  • If you’re lucky you’ll be there on a clear day, however, keep in mind there is no shade and it gets hot at the top!

5 Fun Facts!

  1. The first stone was laid in 1163, but Notre Dame wasn’t completed until 1345. Almost 200 years later!
  2. The Crown of Thorns, a piece of THE Cross as well as a nail are just three of the holy relics inside Notre Dame.
  3. Another name for Notre Dame is Our Lady of Paris.
  4. Bee hives are kept on the roof of the sacristy.
  5. The cathedral’s famous sentries, the gargoyles, you see perched high above the ground, are officially known as chimera, and were added by the architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc during a 25 year restoration which started in 1845.

To say I loved our visit to Notre Dame would be an understatement! From the sweeping views of Paris from high atop the bell towers…

#viewfromnotredame

To the Chimeras and gargoyles ever present keeping a constant and silent vigil over the cathedral, Paris and all who pass below…

#notredamechimera

And finally the feeling you get wandering through the cool dark interiors knowing you’re not alone. That for 850+ years people from around the world have been coming to this same place, each for their own reasons, but surrounded by these same walls, bathed in the glow of these same chandeliers and stained glass windows. I don’t know exactly how to describe it, but for me it was magical.

#notredame

Believe it or not, we still haven’t seen everything! Twist my arm, I guess we’ll have to go back…


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Day Trippers: Chateau de Versailles

#chateaudeversailles

Why do I, and so many other people, love visiting castles and palaces so much? Of course history, art and architecture all play a role, but it’s also a chance to step outside your own reality and see what it might have been like to live in such a place. After all how many of us live in actual castles or palaces?

#versailles

What better place for those “life of royalty” daydreams than the Chateau de Versailles? Even on an overcast day the golden gates of this world famous palace can be seen shinning brightly in the distance.

#versailles

#versailles

Versailles is a place where the walls, ceilings and floors are equally, if not more ornate than the furniture and art found inside. As you wander through the palace peeking inside the Royal Chapel, the King’s bedroom and the Hall of Mirrors, you’ll find yourself surrounded by opulence.

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The Royal Chapel

Speaking of opulent, it doesn’t end when you step outside, in fact quite the contrary. A stroll in the almost 2000 acres of Gardens features among other things a Grand Canal, which is over a mile long, groves, the Orangerie, and at least 50 different fountains.

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Getting There

Taking the SNCF train from the Paris Gare Montparnasse station, (You can’t miss it, it’s the only tall building in all of Paris!), we arrived at the Versailles Chantiers station about 40 minutes later. Wanting to see the town, we decided to walk to the Chateau.

Plan in Advance

#gardensofversailles

If you can I highly recommend planning your visit in advance! Purchasing our tickets only one day prior to our visit we made some mistakes and discovered some things we would have done differently. The day we visited was incredibly hot, but more than that, it was humid, and a late afternoon/evening visit might have been more enjoyable. Keep in mind this is a very popular destination (10 million visitors every year) and it will be incredibly crowded.

Tickets and Other Useful Information

Skipping the line would have been nice, but with short notice I was unable to work out exactly how to make that happen. Here are a few things I did learn that might make things easier:

  • Arrive early! The gates open at 9 am. If you can, be there before they open.#gatesofversailles
  • Purchase your tickets in advance online. Even with advance purchase you’ll need to go through security, which seems to be the cause for the very long entrance lines. However, it moves quicker than the ticket purchase line.
    Versailles France
  • The Passport Ticket option gains you entrance to everything, including the gardens and Marie Antoinette’s Petite Chateau. Children under 18 are free however the exception is: there is a garden entrance fee for children on days with the Fountains Show and on Musical Gardens days.

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    The Passport Ticket includes the gardens.
  • There are guided tours, but not all tours are given in all languages everyday. Unfortunately there were no English speaking tours being offered on the day of our visit. Check the website for tour options before your arrival.#versailles
  • Bring sunscreen, water and wear comfortable shoes, you’ll be doing a lot of walking.#thegrandcanalversailles
  • If you’re visiting in the summer, consider going later in the afternoon for the musical fountains show and possible fireworks. Its also possible the crowds could be lighter later in the day… though we ended our visit around 4:30 pm and noticed the lines were still incredibly long. It was July after all…#versailles

The Palace

#hallofmirrors
Hall of Mirrors

Once inside the Palace I picked up the audio guide that came with my Passport ticket, while the boys chose to go without. It was very crowded, so lingering over anything wasn’t really possible, but we were able to see everything we were interested in. Before heading out to the garden we stopped in the Palace cafe for French ham sandwiches. I got a kick out of the restroom signage!

The Gardens

Versailles France

As I mentioned the gardens are vast, but we did our best to see as much of them as we could. I loved the Enceladus Grove, especially the fountain in the center, which was sculpted in 1675. Our visit took place on a Musical Fountains day, so we were lucky enough to see many of the fountains in action! I was somewhat surprised to see that there weren’t that many flowers in the garden, but I must admit my knowledge of French gardens is lacking. We ran out of steam so boating on the Grand Canal didn’t happen, but we did discover some yummy gelato!

Petit Trianon – Marie Antoinette’s Estate

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My favorite part of the day was our visit to the Petit Trianon, the home away from home of Marie Antoinette, who apparently wasn’t so enamored with the main Palace and preferred to spend her time elsewhere.

The Petite Domaine was her private chateau and was by invitation only. The tour here was self guided, and because it is indeed a very petite palace, doesn’t take long. Afterward, we took our time wandering the chateau’s private gardens, which to my delight had more flowers!

#petitetrianon

Another Women’s March

Our visit to the Chateau de Versailles took place this past July, and 6 months later I’m finally writing about it. Coincidentally this also happens to be the same week that there were women’s marches around the world. It was while reading an article about these marches that I learned about another historic women’s march.

The Women’s March on Versailles, is also known as the October March or the March on Versailles, which might be why I never knew it was actually started by women. Either that, or I might not have been listening in history class that day… Though not peaceful like this week’s marches it was a defining moment in history, which involved women standing up for what they believe is right. The timing seems significant, so I thought I would mention it.

If Those Walls Could Talk

Many important figures in world history and government have walked the halls of Versailles, among them, to name just a few are: Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, Napoleon, and Pope Pius VII. A UNESCO World Heritage site, I was surprised to learn that Versailles is still in use today by the French Government.


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A Photo Tour of Amsterdam

#loveamsterdam

I loved our visit to Amsterdam so much, I broke my 1000 words max rule by 700+ words, and still, I was unable to fit everything in. The more I wrote, the more I had to say, and not just about the amazing museums and food and where to stay, but about the street art and bike bell shops, the everyday people, the city at night, and so much more. Rather than more talk I thought I would try and show you some of the sights and moments that cemented my love of this wonderful city!

Sunset over I Amsterdam

#iamsterdam

Trying for that perfect pic…

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Walking through town the clouds were amazing!

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The architecture both on land and in the water was so lovely!

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Next time we visit I hope to stay on a houseboat!

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The fuzzy warm glow of the lights at night. On the streets…

#iheartamsterdam

the canals…

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the water, and

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in the windows!

#miffythebunny

There were flowers…

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and boats…

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and bikes, everywhere! Sometimes all at once!

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Not to mention the art, both inside…

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and out, was superb!

#amsterdamstreetart

I hear seeing a bride is good luck! No wonder we had such a great visit!

#amsterdambride

Until next time Amsterdam…


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I Amsterdam

#amsterdam

I apologize in advance for the length of this post, but after years of hearing what an amazing city Amsterdam is, I am happy to finally be able to say I wholeheartedly agree! A lovely and walkable city with no shortage of interesting sights and streets to wander we made the most of every minute. With it’s Seattle meets Europe vibe, I felt right at home and I would even go so far as to say, “I would live there,” a distinction I’ve saved for only the most special of places. Needless to say, I hope to return one day.

I Amsterdam

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I Amsterdam is located behind the Rijksmuseum

Always looking for a fun photo opportunity I was excited to visit the I Amsterdam sign! You can’t miss it as the red and white sign is 2 meters tall and crawling with people. The city’s catch phrase, I Amsterdam, represents not just the city itself, but a state of mind and is a symbol of inclusion. It’s hard not to fall in love with such a positive message and it was clear from the crowds swarming on, in and around it that I wasn’t alone in my feelings. There are four I Amsterdam signs throughout the city!

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Of course we joined the masses and posed in, on and around the sign doing our best to get that perfect shot!

#iamsterdam

I Arrive

Training from Bruges and arriving in the early afternoon we grabbed a taxi to the Hotel Sebastian in the Jordaan District, dropped our bags, and immediately set out to see what the city had to offer.

#dewaag
Meeting up with friends was a highlight of our stay!

Lucky for us, we had personal tour guides as some dear (Dutch) friends from the States were also in town. We met them for dinner and a walking tour through the city.

I Giggle

The Red Light District

One can’t write about a visit to Amsterdam and not mention the infamous Red Light District, so let’s just get it out of the way…

#redlightdistrict
The Oude Kerk in the Red Light District

I’ll start by saying, It wasn’t a place I had on “my list” and definitely not with the kids in tow, but we did end up walking through. Talking and walking, and not paying attention we looked around and… Oops! Suddenly instead of retail shops, many of the windows had red curtains hanging in them, but only the occasional few had someone standing inside. The younger boys were oblivious (thankfully), and the older boys did a great job of pretending they were.

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Many of the windows were empty

Funny enough it was the window displays in the “toy” shops, that brought out the giggles in the adults… thankfully the boys, too busy eating ice cream, didn’t notice. However, they did notice the “coffee shops”. The general consensus was: “Why would anyone go in there? It smells so bad!”

I Feel

Anne Frank’s House

#annefrankhuis

As soon as we decided upon a visit to Amsterdam I knew I’d be visiting Anne Frank’s House. My experience visiting this special place was so profound, that I’ve given it a completely separate post. Keep in mind that getting tickets can be somewhat complicated, as the timed Tickets are only available from the official website exactly two months in advance.

I Wander

Walk or Bike Everywhere

#amsterdamhouseboat

A highlight of our visit were the many walks we took. In fact, we walked as many places as we could, rarely using any public transportation. I know you’re wondering why not bike?  Unfortunately, Elliot just wasn’t confident enough to ride a bike in such a big city.

Culture

Museumplein

#museumplein

The Van Gogh Museum

#vangoghmuseum

I loved this museum, which you might be surprised to learn was a surprise to me! Not only will you see the largest collection of Van Gogh works in the world, but you’ll learn Van Gogh’s fascinating life story along the way. Especially touching to me was the close relationship he shared with his brother and sister-in-law who were instrumental in his success and eventual world wide fame.

#potatoeaters

The museum’s layout was easy to navigate and the children’s activities were superb. This museum is incredibly popular, and I highly suggest booking your tickets in advance online as you’ll be able to skip the lines!

The Rijksmuseum

#rijksmuseum

The Rijksmuseum is a Dutch National art and history museum. The museum is vast, so if like us, you’re traveling with a large group, or with children it might be a good idea to choose some highlights rather then try to see it all.

#nightwatch
Studying Rembrandt’s famous Night Watch

On our can’t miss list were paintings by the Dutch Masters Rembrandt and Vermeer a painting of William of Orange, who I learned quite a bit about while in Belfast, the modernist exhibit from 1900 to 1950, a Van Gogh (of course), and the largest painting in the museum, Waterloo.

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I loved this ship model

The MOCO

#mocoamsterdam

The MOCO (Modern Contemporary) is a brand new, privately funded, museum featuring what they themselves refer to as the “rock stars” of the art world. On display during our visit were works by two internationally famous artists: Bansky, a London based graffiti artist, and Andy Warhol, an American pop artist. If you’re interested in either of these two artists, you’d better hurry, the exhibits close January 31, 2017.

Keep in mind this is a very small museum. A visit here could easily be tacked on to either of the above mentioned museums. If you enjoy street, graffiti and pop art than this museum is definitely worth a look around.

I Shop

The 9 Streets

#de9straatjes

If you like to shop, then I you might like The 9 Streets. Located in the Jordaan Neighborhood The 9 Streets are home to galleries, cafes, restaurants and more than 200 retailers, many of them one of a kind, selling everything from modern design to vintage clothing. I especially enjoyed, Pluck, an adorable cafe/shop selling a bit of this and that. An added bonus they had a nice bathroom. If you’re a fan of whimsy then make sure to stop by the Amsterdam Rubber Duck shop, where you’re sure to find a rubber ducky that suits everyone in your party!

Bloom

#floatingflowermarket

Founded in 1862, when flowers were still delivered daily by boat, the Bloemenmarkt is the world’s only floating flower market. Beyond the expected tulips you’ll find the bulbs and seeds of many other flowers as well as marijuana seedlings and starter kits. Before you’re tempted to purchase anything make sure the items your after can be imported into your home country.

This area is also home to many souvenir and cheese shops, so even if you can’t purchase that rare flower or starter kit (wink wink), you’ll be sure to find something else to remember your visit by.

Local

A Day in The life

#ilocal
View from Harriet’s balcony

Invited to join our friends at a local friend’s home we were excited to go inside a traditional Dutch house. The owner, a children’s book writer and amazing artist, was kind enough to give us a tour of her in-home art studio. I was so excited when I got to try-out her printing press!

#bitterballen

A visit to The Vondelpark gave the kids a chance to run free while the adults enjoyed conversation, bitterballen and beer. We had such a lovely afternoon and felt very much like we’d just experienced a day in the life.

Walking back to our hotel through the park we came across this neat little art exhibit, findfence. Where art meets the lost and found!

Holland

Day trip to Zaanse Schans

het-jonge-schaap-sawmill-windmill-6037We spent the majority of our time in Holland exploring Amsterdam, but I felt I couldn’t visit Holland without seeing at least one windmill up close and personal! I know, I know, that’s a very touristy thing to do, but hey, sometimes I’m a tourist!

#zaanseschans

Located just a 30 minute ride from the city, Zaanse Schans was quintessential Holland! There are many things to see and do while visiting Zaanse Schans, the demonstrations of  windmills, clogs, and cheese of course, but also walking and biking trails, boating and of course shopping.

Eat 

De Waag

#dewaag

Dinner on our first night in town, was at the lovely De Waag a restaurant cafe located in the Nieuwmarkt. De Waag (the weigh house) was built in 1488 and was originally one of Amsterdam’s City gates. We were lucky to find a table outside, but a reservation is a good idea!

Cafe Hegeraad

#cafehegeraad

A neighborhood favorite for over 100 years and well known for their delicious apple pie, we made it a point to visit Cafe Hegeraad (Tim lOVES pie). The pie was fine, especially if you’re a fan of pie (which I admit I’m not), but I couldn’t get past the restaurant’s strange decor. Their were RUGS on the table tops. Actual rugs complete with fringe, which I found incredibly weird. I couldn’t get past the idea that rugs are for floors, not table tops.

De Belhamel

#debelhamel

De Belhamel, is a lovely and potentially romantic restaurant (we brought our kids) at edge of the Jordaan quarter. Located on a corner where two canals meet the restaurant’s outdoor dining area has a fabulous view of both canals. Unfortunately it was too windy for outdoor dining during our visit, thankfully the interiors are equally as wonderful and the food was delicious.

De Reiger

#iheartamsterdam

Also in the Jordaan Quarter was the restaurant De Reiger. I enjoyed everything about this meal, the atmosphere inside and out, the service and the food. You can’t ask for more than that!

The Pancake Bakery

#thepancakebakery

Hearing they had the best pancakes in town, we had to go to The Pancake Bakery. The table line was long, but moved fast. I’ve decided I’m not a fan of Dutch pancakes (sorry), but everyone else in the group enjoyed them. Elliot’s car pancake actually came with a giant toy car. Who knew!?

I Sleep

#hotelsebastians

I highly recommend the Hotel Sebastians as both the location and service were perfect. The rooms and ensuite bathrooms were also lovely and spacious, but I admit the having the toilet inside the shower stall was a bit strange. If I wasn’t considering a houseboat stay on my next visit I would absolutely stay here again!

We Love

#nightcanal

Can you tell by the length of this post, that We ALL loved our visit in this amazing city?


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The Windmills of Holland

#windmill

We spent the majority of our time in Holland exploring Amsterdam, but I felt I couldn’t visit Holland without seeing at least one windmill up close and personal! I know, I know, that’s a very touristy thing to do, but hey, sometimes I’m a tourist!

#zaanseschans

Located just a 30 minute ride from the city, Zaanse Schans, is quintessential Holland!  Beautiful meadows filled with grazing cows, fluffy white clouds and windmills, their sails slowly turning, in the distance.

#zaanseschans

There are many things to see and do while visiting Zaanse Schans, demonstrations inside the  windmills, a wooden clog museum, and tasting cheese of course, but also museums, walking and biking trails, boating and of course shopping. We arrived later in the day, but made the most of our limited time. We all loved this experience which offered something for everyone and was a great taste of Holland.

The Windmills

#zaanseschans

There are eight windmills onsite, all of them are centuries old, and all are still operational. Although from a distance they look peaceful, it’s a different story on the inside where they are hard at work sawing, grinding and pounding. The noise is unbelievable!

#hetjongeschaap

The Zaanse Schans windmills produce, mustard, lumber, dye, and oil. We visited Het Jonge Schaap which is a sawmill and De Bonte Hen an oil mill. During our visit we learned about the processes from start to finish, but also about the lives of the people living in and operating them. I found this entire experience fascinating and incredibly worthwhile. Imagine living inside the mill all year long, the constant loud noise, the cold winters, your livelihood dependent on the wind.

#debontehen

The Wooden Clog Workshop

#zaanseschans

Located inside the Wooden Clog Workshop is the Wooden Clog Museum and I really got a kick out of all the different types of clogs on display. There were wedding clogs, ice clogs, carved, painted and art clogs to name just a few. It’s hard to imagine actually walking around in any of them, as I do best on a flat shoe!

#woodenclogdemonstration

The boys weren’t as interested in viewing the already made clogs, but enjoyed the how to demonstration, while I browsed the gift shop, filled with you guessed it: clogs! In every size and color they lined the walls making quite a pretty picture! For me the highlight was the large statue of Miffy the Bunny, a favorite of mine.

#miffythebunny

The Catharina Hoeve Cheese Farm

#zaanseschans

Of course you can’t be in Holland and not eat cheese. The Catharina Hove Cheese shop is a replica of a cheese farm. Inside you’ll find the shopkeepers, dressed in traditional costumes, ready and willing to tell you all about the different types of cheese. There are samples available and of course you can purchase some to take with you. We happily picked up a few different varieties in anticipation of our upcoming train ride to Paris.

#zaanseschans

We had a wonderful time during our visit to Zaanse Schans. It was a perfect afternoon!


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Visiting The Anne Frank House

#annefrankhuis

Anne Frank’s house was my first destination upon arriving in Amsterdam. Entering would have to wait as my tickets were for another day, but something in me just needed to see it. Standing outside this important place in history, which I’d read about my entire life, and that seemed to be just any other ordinary building, was surreal. I suddenly felt as if I were in a fog, I could see and hear the other people around me, but felt strangely outside myself. Sorrow, incredulity, anger rolled over me like a wave. In that moment, right there on that regular sidewalk the joy was sucked right out of me. Simultaneously I was grateful to be standing there. Outside. Grateful that I could be, and that no one was telling me otherwise.

Amsterdam Holland The Netherlands

Maybe you’re reading the above and thinking, why would anyone willingly put themselves through emotions like that if they didn’t have to? I don’t blame you, but I strongly believe that in order to protect future generations we must step outside our comfort zone. Keeping these memories alive, no matter how unpleasant, is paramount.

 ‘Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.’ – George Santayana

#annefrankshouse
The Anne Frank House is on the left side of the Canal

The next morning I got up early and knowing my family needed their rest, I wrote them a note and then went out for a walk around the neighborhood. I wandered back over to the Anne Frank House as I wanted time for a little introspection. I found a cup of coffee and a bench and watched the people go by.

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Surprising to me, many of them posed happily by the front door, smiling and laughing while acting goofy. Some seemed to be making a show of being dramatic, a caricature of sorts.  Somehow this felt wrong to me. Strange I thought… is this a happy place?

#amsterdamcanal
Canal across the way from the Anne Frank House

A short while later standing across the canal I listened in on a bike tour. Although the guide did mention the Nazi occupation, the secret annex and that their had been people hiding inside for over two years it was very perfunctory and felt quite shallow.

What you need to know before visiting

#annefrankhouse

As soon as we decided upon a visit to Amsterdam I knew I’d be visiting Anne Frank’s house and with that knowledge immediately researched making it happen. As it turned out it can be somewhat complicated. Tickets are required, timed and are only available from the official website exactly two months in advance. Due to the museum’s popularity they will sell out, so I highly recommend setting a reminder on your calendar. Hopefully, you’ll have some flexibility, as even armed with this knowledge I was only able to secure two tickets during the entire duration of our five night stay. This worked out for our family as my little one wasn’t quite old enough for this experience.

Here are some other things to keep in mind when planning a visit:

  • The Anne Frank House is located in the center of Amsterdam at Prinsengracht 263-267
  • Visitors between the hours of 9:00 am and 3:30 pm must purchase their tickets in advance online.
  • You can show your ticket directly from your smart phone.
  • From 3:30 PM until closing time you can buy a ticket at the museum entrance. I don’t recommend this as the lines are extremely long and you won’t be guaranteed entrance.
  • Last entry to the museum is 30 minutes before closing time, but the queue for the Anne Frank House closes earlier. Depending on how busy it is, this can be as much as 2 hours before closing time.
  • No photographs are allowed inside the museum.
  • Strollers and large bags aren’t allowed inside the museum.

Thoughts on our visit:

Our timed entry was 2:15 pm, so after a morning exploring the city, Simon and I went to the Museum. Here are some of my thoughts as I wrote them directly after the visit:

It was simply heartbreaking, but so worth while. I silently cried my way through the entire thing.

Though Simon recently studied Anne Frank in school, and even after we stood in the very places Anne and her family stood, I’m not sure it really got through to him that her and her family only died because they were jews. That prior to going to hiding they weren’t allowed to swim at the beach, go to school, visit friends or really do anything at all just because they were jews.

Seeing the rooms, staircases and the bookcase, which hid the entrance to their secret annex was incredibly surreal. After reading and hearing about Anne my entire life and then to actually stand in the place where they hid for over two years is very difficult to put into words.

Peeking out the window onto the street below. Knowing that on the rare occasion that Anne herself could look out that she looked out these same windows. She saw the same things we saw, people freely walking by, laughing, playing, boats on the canal, heard the nearby church bells, only unlike us, she couldn’t leave.

The visit to the Anne Frank house is self guided, though Anne’s words are written on the walls throughout. You’ll walk through the office below the secret annex, the annex and have an opportunity to see Anne’s diaries. There are many.

The video interviews of Otto Frank, her father, and other people who knew her are fascinating and really help bring her to life.

With the exception of a few items on display most of the rooms are empty. This is deliberate as Otto Frank specifically requested they be kept this way as a symbol of all the people who never came back.

Surprisingly, even after this moving and educational experience I could tell that it was hard for Simon to grasp when he saw during our visit. How could he? Thankfully, he’s only known acceptance and tolerance. However, all the more reason why this visit was so important.


Visiting The Anne Frank House

Three Days in Brugge

Bruges Canal

Having done very little research prior to my arrival in Brugge, I was surprised and delighted by the incredible beauty of this quaint little medieval town. I immediately fell in love and spent the better part of my three days there taking endless photos (sorry in advance). In hindsight, I’m not sure how this gem of a city wasn’t already on my radar (oops!), but thankfully it was on Tim’s… And apparently everyone else’s!

Brugge Belgium
The view from our hotel room.

Yes! Bruges is very touristy, but even in the height of tourist season the city quiets down after dinner when all the daytrippers head out of town, and if you’re patient you’ll have the entire place to yourself! Of course Brugge is more than just a pretty face and we enjoyed exploring and tasting everything it has to offer.

#brugge
The Venice of the North

Getting There

Departing London after a three week road trip through Ireland and the UK, we traded in our rental car and set off for Belgium via train. The entire ride takes around three and a half hours, including a transfer in Brussels. Purchasing our tickets at St. Pancras Station one day prior to departure, we were really lucky to find seats together. An added bonus: we got table seats, meaning the four of us could sit around a table and look at our electronics and not each other. HA HA!
#Brugge

Three stops and one hour later we’d arrived!

#bruggesunset
Rozenhoedkaai View

My first impression upon our arrival to the center of the city:

Suddenly we were in one of the most beautiful cities I’d ever seen! Seriously! It’s not even fair to other cities, which don’t even stand a chance against the beauty of this place!

hotel-window-brugge-4969
The view from our hotel room.

Arriving in time for dinner, we chose a little place just off The Markt, the city center and main square. Mussels, frites and of course a Belgian waffle were on our menu!

#themarkt
The Markt

Brugge is a great place to wander, and although the chocolate shops (there are so many!) had all closed for the day we enjoyed window shopping and wandering through town before heading back to enjoy the amazing view from our room at the Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce!

We loved this little hotel, and if you’re interested in a splurge I highly recommend it. The accommodations, location and service were all perfect! They even have their own box of cookies!

#brugge

Day One

By the way is it Brugge, Bruge, Brugges, Bruges? You say tomato…

Our first day in town also happened to be American Independence Day. I must admit it felt a bit funny waking up in another country where the 4th of July is just another day. I’m not one to make too big a fuss over The 4th, but as we wandered through town, on our way to the laundromat, we noticed a number of rib restaurants and decided it would be fun to have an “American dinner”. We choose a place called Ribs n’ Beer (Really!), made a reservation for later, and set off to explore until dinner.

#brugge

With no real plan beyond enjoying the city, we spent the afternoon wandering in and out of shops, many of them selling chocolate, visited a park and went on a boat ride through the canals.

Boat Tours

#bruggeboattour

When in Brugge a boat tour of the canals is pretty much a must do, after all they don’t call it the Venice of the North for nothing. No need to plan ahead as there are several companies offering tours and the stops are conveniently located.

#bruggeboats

The ride was lovely, though at 30 minutes, a bit short. The guides speak English, French and Dutch, however when our guide spoke English, he affected such a funny accent we had no idea what he was saying. Afterwards when we asked him a question he sounded completely regular. We decided giving the same tour every thirty minutes all day long must be somewhat tedious and that he was entertaining himself with funny voices.

#bruggehotel
View of our hotel from the boat tour

Boating, Beer and BBQ

#ribsandbeer
Ribs n’ Beer

Our meal at Ribs n’ Beer was delicious and after our day of shopping and “boating,” Simon was delighted to discover they were all you can eat! We’d enjoyed three popular american favorites, boating, beer and BBQ, making our 4th of July celebration a complete success!

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Continuing our tradition of sampling cocoa in every new country, we found ourselves a table at T’ Klein Venetie a little cafe overlooking the famous Rozenhoedkaai View. We met some lovely people visiting from Mexico City and Tim chatted with them in Spanish while I took more photos. A lovely end to a great day!

#cocoa

Day Two

#belgianwaffle

Starting our day off with waffles, we sampled two kinds. The boys were interested in waffles on a stick, which were then dipped in chocolate and coated with the topping of their choice (marshmallows), while Tim and I went for a more traditional style.

Brugge Museums 

#brugge

If you’re planning more than one day in Brugge you might consider purchasing the museum pass, which will give you access to 14 of the city’s main attractions. Over the course of our visit we saw The Belfort, the Archeological Museum, Brugse Vrije, O.L.V-Kerk. Sint Janshospitaal, and the Stadhuis.

#michelangelo

Highlights were the city views from The Belfort, viewing Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child in the Church of Our Lady (O.L.V- Kerk), and the apothecary museum at Sint Janshospitaal.

#sintjanshospitaal

After a long day of museum hoping we found ourselves at Brasserie Souffleur where we enjoyed a lovely meal before heading out to see Brugge at night.

Day Three

#themarkt

Starting our day off with a visit to the Wednesday food market in The Markt, we picked up some fruit and a few other snacks to enjoy while wandering up and down the aisles. Many of the vendors displayed their foods in glass cases built right into the trucks they used to transport their wares.

Brugge is not only famous for chocolate, but also diamonds and we visited both the Choco Story Museum and the Diamond Museum.

#chocostory

Highlights were the chocolate making demonstration with yummy samples and the learning the fascinating science behind diamonds including interactive exhibits.

#chezvincent

Recommended by a friend as the best place for frites in Brugge, our next stop was Chez Vincent. That said, we enjoyed our fries, and the many dipping sauces available, but I’m not sure they were the best. The hours are somewhat erratic and because of its popularity there are a lot of rules…

Brugge at Night

#rozenhoedkaaiview

If you do plan a day trip to Brugge, I highly recommend sticking around to see it at night. The lighting is absolutely stunning, which makes for some pretty great photos!

#belfort

#bruggenight


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Three Days in Bruges Belgium with Kids #familytravel #belgiumwithkids

Take me with you!

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